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Loren

Admin
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Everything posted by Loren

  1. I would not rule out a rear wheel bearing - especially if the car has over 60,000 miles (96,500 km).
  2. I agree one liter should do it.
  3. So you read the FAQ? Then you must have missed this part... "I get a WAIT in the display - what do I do? You have to wait 1 hour - with the radio on and ignition switch on (or the car running)."
  4. When I hear "chirp" a loose spark plug always comes to mind.
  5. The suspect areas are: - Incorrect signal from MAF sensor - Intake air system leaking - Fuel pressure too low - Volume supply of fuel pump too low - Fuel injectors fouled
  6. For your car: 350 mm fronts 330 mm rears
  7. The coil packs are a known problem - I think it is best to change them anyway. Especially since they are several revisions out.
  8. That VIN has the following options factory installed: I1KZ -- Rear disc brakes - disc diameter 17 inches, brake caliper painted red I1LM -- Front disc brake - disc diameter 18 inches, brake caliper painted red
  9. I just got the TSBs search for "oils" and it returns the latest TSBs for all. (click to enlarge)
  10. The latest coil pack number is:948-602-104-20. If it were my car I would change them all and be done with it.
  11. Did they clean the ground connections to the chassis when they replaced the battery. Poor grounds can cause all kind of strange anomalies. I would check the easy stuff first and if that does not work then find a shop with either Porsche PST2, PIWIS tester, or at least Durametric software for further diagnostics.
  12. How new are your coil packs? You do know they have updated them numerous times because of the failures. Check the part number and report it here and we'll see if it is one of the newest.
  13. Fault P2320 - Bar ignition module on cylinder 7 -- SoftShutDown Possible causes: - Short circuit to B+ - Short circuit to ground - Open circuit in line - Fuse F 07 faulty (fuse carrier in plenum panel E-box) - Bar ignition coil faulty My bets would be on the last two. Check the fuse first then try swapping the coil pack to another cylinder - and if follows the coil pack replace it.
  14. Try setting the potentiometer at mid-range - the software will tell you if it can adjust from there.
  15. :welcome: Have you tried running a convertible top calibration using Durametric, a Porsche PST2, or PIWIS tester? Many small problems can be corrected by running this diagnostic and calibration. The calibration will reset all potentiometers that are within operating conditions. I would certainly try that first.
  16. Just turn the key to the on position without touching the gas pedal - wait one minute turn the key off and then start as normal. That will re-learn the the throttle position. The DME will then go through normal re-learning of idle and acceleration patterns - so drive the car normally and everything should be normal after 5 miles or so.
  17. The control unit in the car constantly talk to each other so the ABS/PSM talks to the DME and get all sorts of information such as engine speed, load, etc. Likewise the wheel speed and brake actuation go back to the DME. I think your best bet is to re-run the diagnostics using the Durametric and reporting the faults here.
  18. Can the solenoid work in only one direction. Mine will lock with remote but unlock will not move it to unlock. I have to manually pull it. Do you think it might just need cleaned? Thanks in advance Maybe cleaned or binding. Best inspect it further.
  19. I think it would be helpful if you would give us the fault codes. All tires are the same size, make and have similar wear? Likewise with wheels same size and width per axle?
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