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Loren

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Everything posted by Loren

  1. I do not see an option "BL" for 1999 series 996. Here is the options list for that model year... MY1999 Model 996 Options List
  2. Congratulations! :thumbup: Your smile must be ear to ear...
  3. Based on the age of your car it is likely a good idea to both inspect and measure the rotors too.
  4. 996.618.151.15 was the only control unit used on on all Litronic and Bi-Xenon lights in the 986 and 996 series. ​Not sure about the eBay part number - it comes up as not valid. The salvage route ought to work.
  5. You need to keep the overall tire diameter within 2% of original (per Porsche) - certainly no more than 5%.
  6. That tells you likely have a problem in the steering wheel airbag and horn area. Whether from previous work or just normal wear and tear - the car is 12 years old after all. Make sure the key is OUT of the ignition when working on the steering wheel as the airbag circuit is active when the key is in the ignition (even in OFF position).
  7. Here is what another member with the same problem found... http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/14923-horn-only-works-when-car-off/?p=80697
  8. Yes, the headlight switches do wear out. Usually the headlight switch is bad when - you flip it back and forth a few times you will see erratic behavior.
  9. :welcome: When you did the install did you 1. Replace the 7.5 amp fuses (in A9 and A10) with 15 amp fuses? 2. Install and proper wire in the control module for each headlight? 3. Self leveling would never work on the DIY version since the kit did not include the sensors or wiring. 4. Have you removed the headlight and checked the condition of both the plug (on the back of the headlight) and the socket (on the car) that it plugs into. We've seen a bunch of these with damage from improper alignment when seating the headlight. 5. Also check to see that non of the pins have been pushed out of place. That ought to be a good start...
  10. Yes, because the cold oil takes longer to flow in the small passages. You might want to go 0W-40 in the winter where you live...
  11. The tick-tick-tick sounds normal as the oil will drain out of the valve tappets in less than one week of not running. Should go away once warm. If that is what you heard you are likely okay.
  12. Chassis is always ground - measure the voltage at A4 (Red/Blue wire) at the PSM switch carefully so you don't short it and blow the fuse. It should be be about 12 VDC with the lights on and 0 VDC with the lights off.
  13. :welcome: Wow... that DIY (on 6speed) looks just like the one Scouser wrote here a year earlier.... even the photos are copied. Scouser is from the UK and the car is his (note the RHD). The Red/Blue wire on the PSM switch should be fused power (+12 VDC) -- A4 on the PSM switch. The Grey/Blue?Brown wire on the PSM switch should be fused power is ground when the lights are on -- A3 on the PSM switch.
  14. This is a tough one then... since you get a CAN fault like that when the controllers can not talk to one (or more) controller. Usually there is another error from another controller saying it can reach a different controller. So I guess the next question or place to look at is recent repairs where they could have damaged or disconnected the CAN connection from somewhere.
  15. What model is that again? Is it CDR-32? if so, please read this - Lost Radio Code FAQ It is an MDR-32, its the Sony mini disk version. I used the hold TP to get up the Becker 1 and SN etc. It is prompting for a Code with 1 to 0 underneath. I am willing to try a code or two in the hope that it works Ok - then try 5149
  16. That is an open CAN circuit fault. How old is your battery? Check for other systems faults to narrow it down.
  17. What model is that again? Is it CDR-32? if so, please read this - Lost Radio Code FAQ
  18. Best to measure the fuel pumps output to start and eliminate or pinpoint.
  19. What type of scanner?
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