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Loren

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Everything posted by Loren

  1. That might be fine for wheel bolts but I would not use it on much of anything else. If you are planning on engine work or work where the torque needs to be precise - I would go with Snap-On or Proto. I have had my Proto for over 30 years and like JFP I get the calibration checked yearly and it is always dead on, A good torque wrench is a lifetime purchase - that could also save your life (and your wallet) in the long run.
  2. I have not - but there is a reason they have changed the part at least three times. It could be a coincidence - just a bad pump. Either way it should be under repair warranty.
  3. Make sure they are putting in the latest part number fuel pump as there have been at least 3 changes. Latest fuel pump part numbers (as of Dec 2013) LHD 996-620-107-02 RHD 996-620-108-02
  4. You need a special tool (box) (and a PST2 or PIWIS tester) to test the airbag trigger circuit (airbag out). Testing the airbag itself also requires a special tool and lots of caution. A job perhaps best left to a competent Porsche shop.
  5. The door lock one is likely a mechanical problem with the door lock that prevents it from reaching it full lock position at times. I would clear it and see if it come back. Airbag -- Fault codes 12, 13, 28, 29, 40 Ignition circuit, driver's side airbag Possible cause of fault - Short circuit to B+/ground or open circuit in the wiring between the driver's side airbag unit and the airbag triggering unit - Driver's side airbag faulty
  6. Air intake and fuel distribution pipe should be all you need to remove.
  7. As long as it is NOT Burmah oil you are fine... (click to enlarge)
  8. :welcome: You will need good scanner to pull your fault code(s) and report them here. Without the fault codes everything is just guessing.
  9. I basically have the same as JFP in PA except that I also have a 1/2 drive 30 to 200 ftlb Craftsman torque wrench that I use exclusively for wheels. I do that because I do not want my good engine/transmission/suspension torque wrenches to get dropped - which in my experience is inevitable when working on wheels. So a less expensive (and less precise) torque wrench for wheels makes sense to me. Plus or minus 10% is fine for wheels.
  10. From the MY1999 Owners Manual... (click to enlarge)
  11. Ok - always helpful if you tell us the model year. For your model year (pre- egas cars) P1121 is an O2 sensor heating. If you get 60-80,000 miles out of O2 sensors then you are fortunate. Make sure you get the right sensors from Porsche or Bosch as the wrong part number is known to cause this sort of problem.
  12. From the Porsche Tech Book... "The thermostat starts to open at 83ºC, lift is 9.8 mm at 98ºC, and it reaches its maximum opening at 105ºC. Coolant temperature is measured at the engine block inlet." The thermostat is is not fully open until 105 C - or 221 F. So that sounds normal. Also... "A supplementary electrical run-on pump provides circulation in the coolant circuit even after the engine has been switched off. Depending on coolant temperature and the last driving cycle (map derived from fuel consumption) this pump is actuated by the DME control module through a relay." So it would appear that the fans do not run with the engine off - but an electric pump does.
  13. Strange electrical faults can many times be traced back to a weak or bad battery as well as bad chassis grounds.
  14. I've lusted over them for a couple years now. I may do it this time for the new 991. They do look great. Torque spec on the 991 series is now 118 ft.lbs. Porsche bumped it up from 96 ft.lbs. I think because of the 20 inch rims. More likely the newer wheels are more steel (e.g. Cayenne) than alloy.
  15. Sorry you are wrong - I have see a headlight switch do exactly that. There are several sets of contacts on the headlight switch.
  16. O2 sensors are easy to test - see my earlier posts (in this thread). P1121 is a throttle position fault. Not really related unless the throttle is not closing when the DME tells it to. Try cleaning your electrical contacts on the throttle position sensor (electrical contact cleaner only) - and - clean your throttle body with spray throttle body cleaners. Clear the codes and see if they come back.
  17. Wiggle the headlight switch - if the light comes on or flickers with the wiggling then you have found your problem.
  18. If your sure the fault code is correct the "55" at the start would signify a lid problem - like hood open.
  19. The PCM Owners Manuals can be downloaded here
  20. :welcome: You should be able to test the dash light by turning the key to the "on" position - but not starting the car. All dash lights come on then - but some only for a few seconds.
  21. New thicknesses are: Front: 34 mm Rear: 28 mm Wear limits are: Front: 32 mm Rear: 26 mm Peak-to-valley surface roughness of brake disc after machining (max.): 0.006 mm Thickness tolerance of brake discs (max.): 0.02 mm Lateral runout of brake disc: 0.03 mm Lateral runout of brake disc when installed (max.): 0.06 mm
  22. Ok thanks. In your case your brakes are both 350 mm.
  23. Rears are 350 mm. The fronts should also be 350 mm unless the GT2's 380 mm rotors were installed. Plus there are different rotors for center-lock wheels... If you want PM me your VIN and I will look up what was factory installed.
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