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Loren

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Everything posted by Loren

  1. The CEL will go out (after some driving) if you have no more fault codes. You can also clear the CEL and re-check for faults using a diagnostic tool.
  2. Looks like some type of anti-seize to me. Clean it all off the best you can - no anti-seize is needed. A huge percentage of misfires on the early Cayennes are due to bad coil packs. Porsche changed these several times in the early 2000's. I would suggest you start by changing them all to the latest version.
  3. I would think it more likely the sender inside the tank is bad or gummed up with residue.
  4. I would say that depends on your weather there. If you get winters where it is get very cold you want all the cold cranking power you can get that turn the engine over with 0W-40 oil and temperatures in the low teens. If it rarely gets that cold there then you can likely go with the lower end battery. (IMHO of course)
  5. You may need to find someone with a PST2 or PIWIS tester. If it still not come up on a POrsche tester then the control module may be dead.
  6. If the alarm/immobilizer ever got wet I would suspect it first. Likely it has concealed damage and or corrosive damage. A complete battery of tests using a PST2 or PIWIS on that control unit might bring out the problem but if it is corrosion then I think you are fighting a never ending battle. The transponder (pill) always sends out a signal the question is whether the immobilizer sees it. As I said you need further diagnostics to narrow the problem.
  7. It is likely that your (cable driven) throttle is going past the 100% open and the butterfly is partially closing again. You can check this with a second person - just have one person slowly push the accelerator pedal (no need to start the car) while the other observes the throttle butterfly. I suspect the butterfly is going past "wide open". If that is the case then you will need a Porsche PST2 or PIWIS tester to re-calibrate wide open throttle.
  8. Those batteries are all likely made by Johnson Controls. I think you are okay with either. I always plan on replacing battery every 4 years max as most barely seem to last more that that. And who wants to call road service.
  9. Those appear to be correct according to my May 2017 PET.
  10. Dress the button to lower and hold for 10 seconds even after they are all the way down. Do the same for windows up.
  11. Are you using Durametric? Try turning the ignition off for a few seconds then turn it back on - always do a full control unit scan first.
  12. What radio model please? (on the front of the radio)
  13. If both doors lock and unlock with the dash button then your mechanics are likely good. I do not recall a way to have a manual key turn unlock both doors. These early cars did not have programming options. Two possible solutions for the key fobs. 1. Open them up and replace what it likely a worn out button. Someone wrote this up for Boxster keys a while ago. 2. Buy one of the nice new Design key fobs and transfer your blade and transponder pill to the new key. No programming required.
  14. If you do not want to pay ~$455 for a new switch assembly try a salvage yard or eBay.
  15. Start by reading the Lost Radio Code FAQ and then follow the instructions to post in the correct thread. This topic is now closed.
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