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Loren

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Everything posted by Loren

  1. Loren
    If you mean the Cup Car brakes: Front brake disc: One piece steel Diameter = 350 mm Brake disc thickness: 33 mm 6 piston – aluminium brake caliper. Rear brake disc: One piece steel Diameter = 330 mm Brake disc thickness: 28 mm 4 piston – aluminium brake caliper. The shipping pads on a Cup Car are: Front axle Pagid P50, rear axle RS14 green If this is what you need let me know and it will take me a day or two look up the Porsche Motosports part numbers.
  2. Loren
    The plastic rivets should just pop out usually without damage. I bought some extras before I started but never used them. I added a cooling diagram to my DIY page last week that hopefully illustrates the hose path a little better (I could not get a photo because there was not enough light to see it).
  3. Loren
    I would check the wiring harness that runs to the 3rd brake light. It could be that they disconnected that harness to repair the bumper and forgot to reconnect it.
  4. Loren
    The best book I know of is: 911 Porsche Performance Handbook by Bruce Anderson. Bruce's website is here
  5. Loren
    Do you mean the seat belt recepticle? If so, the MY02 on GT3 and Boxster use (drivers side) 996 803 183 09
  6. Loren
    Mike, Absolutely no problem. Let me know if you are interested in being a moderator.... seriously! :beer:
  7. Loren
    Mike, You are too fast.... maybe we need to make you a moderator? :clapping:
  8. Loren
    I used rubbing alcohol on the visors (not isopropyl). Also, make sure you keep it away from the hinges or other parts. I used Q-tips and alcohol will soften the rubberized like labels and then they will just peel off. Take your time as the alcohol takes some time to work... probably 15-20 minute per visor. The velcro is also just stuck on. It might help to warm the velcro slightly with a hair dryer. If you still have sticky stuff remain on the carpet use a gum or tar remover designed for indoor carpeting.
  9. Loren
    Have a look at this thread in the DIY section.
  10. Loren
    Here is the "latest" tank part number: 996 106 147 06 Jeff (Tool Pants) will have to get back with you about removal as I've never taken one out of a Boxster.
  11. Loren
    Are you sure that it is not the AC condensation drain? ...it is the only drain close to the passenger compartment.
  12. Loren
    What year is your car? ...there have been 4 different tanks and 2 different caps.
  13. Loren
    You can download the B&M instructions here (about 2.5 MB). They are actually very good.
  14. Loren
    There is a DIY here. Be sure and double check the part numbers with your dealer/supplier as they sometimes change without notice.
  15. Loren
    There is a TSB that covers "Scratching or scraping noise" where they rework (file down) the scraping portion of the upper pedal. Your car should have a newer pedal that isn't supposed to do that though... hmmm. There is also some mention "Squeaking and binding" of both the boost spring sticking and/or the clutch master cylinder sticking which just requires some special lubricant. Worse case they should replace the pedal assembly.
  16. Loren
    You've got mail...
  17. Loren
    Yeah, those sound nice as long as they don't vibrate loose and rattle around in the trunk. The little rubber nutserts do pull out pretty easily so yo might want to make them small enough that you can't get too much torque on them. (IMHO)
  18. Loren
    Well, if you are sure the latch is released (can you hear or feel movement?). Perhaps if you have someone pull on the emergency release cable while you push down and slightly slide to side on the hood (not on the logo as it will break off) you can release the catch enough to free it. If not, then it is going to be an expensive fix.
  19. Loren
    What happened did someone over-torque the rubber nutserts? (ask me how I would know ;) ) 999 500 092 00 are the rubber nutserts Unfortunately Porsche does not list the screws for the air cleaner separately (see image below). 999 590 045 40 are the battery cover hold down (plastic) screws 999 590 046 40 are the small plastic inserts they turn into (just in case)
  20. Loren
    Here are some things to go over with your service advisor... 1. Ask them to: Please check and fix any other oil leaks (intemediate shaft, cam covers, from pulley seal) at the same time. Also, check and replace the clutch if needed. 2. Ask them if they will be checking the installation position of the crankshaft with special tool 9699/1. 3. Make sure you get documentation of the part numbers used and approriate dates for potential future warranty claims. 4. Ask them to pray for your car... ;)
  21. Loren
    Karl, I think you are correct. I think you can tell the MOST system there is no radio (at least that it can recognize). I'll send you the pages from the TSB via email. BTW... there are actually two different CDR-23's used in the MY03's: 996 645 128 01 Radio with internal amplification (Replaces with 996 645 128 X) 996 645 129 01 Radio with external amplification (Replaces with 996 645 129 X)
  22. Loren
    L741 for Black (water based) L747 for Black (conventional)
  23. Loren
    :oops: Sorry, I thought you wanted to do something with the sill storage and controls. If you want to remove the sill plates (i.e. Carrera) they are just held on with double-sided tape (and have nothing to do with the sill storage). So, dental floss and a hair dryer usually work well. Be sure to mark the locations with tape (or something) so that when you put the new ones on you don't have to measure for centering.
  24. Loren
    What year is your car? Early cars used a cable release and starting in MY01 the release became electric.
  25. Loren
    Karl, According to the TSB for the TT and GT2 you are mostly correct. The computer system recogizes an existing radio and as long as that same radio is taken out or put in the same car there is no code or programming needed. But, if you replace the radio (with another CDR-23) the PST2 must be used to have the computer identify the new radio and "program" it to work with this car.
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