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Loren

Admin
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Everything posted by Loren

  1. Like this? 1 - Compressor 2 - Condenser 3 - Fluid reservoir 4 - Expansion valve 5 - Evaporator
  2. What year? There is a TSB for a voluntary Workshop Service Action (W317 - Replace Key Remote Control) on specific VIN number cars. Mostly MY03 as I recall.
  3. Kind of hard to tell from that angle. Could be cam cover or could be a spark plug tube (seal). Pull the spark plug heat shield off and see if it is coming from a specific cylinder or the top of the cam cover.
  4. The alarm siren is used on RoW cars only starting in MY04. It is not present on US/Canadian cars.
  5. Dell - it looks great! How about a straight on shot to compare it with a "normal" GT3 spoiler lip? Paste it next to this...
  6. I don't know why it would. In the US there are laws that prevent companies from forcing their own high priced maintenance/replacement parts or then voiding warranties. Have a look at this article: Warranty Denied?
  7. Did you adjust the clamping screws to 8 mm? Did I send you the assembly instructions? If, not I can...
  8. Traction control is all in the DME and ABS systems so if you don't change those it should not be affected.
  9. Have a look at this thread. Then ask the folks that have already done it.
  10. Have a look at this thread.
  11. Yes, the parts list shows the (MY99) 02 part replaced by the (MY00) 03 part replaced by the 04 part. It also says to replace that part you will need the following additional hardware: 996 580 667 00 Bracket - 2 needed (retail $3.24 each) 999 591 489 02 Speed Nut - 2 needed (retail $0.19 each) 999 073 060 02 Tapping Screw - 3 needed (retail $0.08 each)
  12. Uh... did you look in the DIY section? ;) ;)
  13. 996 637 117 01 Horn for alarm system - Retail $11.79 (as of 12/04 price list) Try our friends at Sunset Imports (Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost)
  14. Do you have your MY99 Owners Manual? If you do, look at pages 176 to 178. If not, post again and I'll see if I can scan it for you.
  15. I just did a review of it in the new Reviews section. You can find it here.
  16. Near the top of the page... click on the link that says: Carrera/GT3 Maintenance Checklists and choose your model year range US/Canada or RoW.
  17. If the alarm horn is dead and the lights double flash then it is likely an open zone. Most common open zones are: the center console lid not shut tight (or the microswitch is broken), then microswitch for the front trunk, or 3rd party radio installed without covering the alarm trigger point. It could be this simple.
  18. I tend to follow the factory maintenance schedule which is sometimes a little hard to interpret. Here is how I see it: 1. Do the Minor Maintenance at the prescribed intervals. 2. Do the Major Maintenance at the prescribed intervals. 3. Do the Annual Maintenance for all items the meet the "annual" test that were not performed in either the Minor or Major maintenance in the last year. 4. Do any Additional Maintenance items the meet the "additional" test that were not performed in either the Minor, Major or Annual maintenance.
  19. No, you could leave it on the ground. Depending on your ride height it will just be a little more difficult to get to the bolts under the bumper. Got stubby tools? I think just a phillips screwdriver and a regular screwdriver should do it for the bumper itself. On a Carrera the cooling ducts are held on with Torx screws - I think TT is the same (as I recall). Torx drivers are available at Sears and on a Carrera it was is a T-25 - I think the TT is the same. Sears sells a set of the smaller sizes so I would get that - I think it is 15 to 30 or 35. You could get Torx socket drivers too but for these (and interior) small parts it might be too easy to over-torque them. I have a set of hand Torx drivers (look like screwdrivers) for the small sizes and a set of socket drivers for the larger (35 - on). For this project the hand drivers will work fine.
  20. I'm not the Boxster guy but I'm pretty sure it was plastic through MY02.
  21. Some aftermarket scan tools (like mine) can also display all four sensors and the voltage readings. It is all available via OBD II if your tool supports it. I guess the MAF could still be part of the problem - but until you fix the first O2 sensor problem you won't know. There are codes specfic to an MAF failure but you don't have those. IMHO - You need to look at the O2 voltages correct that problem then look for other causes and faults. If you have a bad O2 sensor it can mask or cause all sorts of problems/faults.
  22. The system goes through a series of tests as it "sets" the alarm. If during one of those tests a criteria is not met then an alarm readiness state is displayed (i.e. rapid flashing, double-flashing, on, off, or normal flashing). Rapid flashing means that the alarm system is not "primed". Unlike the signal most folks get with an open zone (single horn beep when a zone is open) the rapid flashing would indicate that the alarm did not succeed in reaching the readiness state. Again, if it works with a key then it is likely either a battery (bad battery or poor contact) or even a sticking button on the remote. BTW... you said rapid flashing not double flashing... right? They mean different things.
  23. What happens if you lock it by key? If it works fine with the key it might be the remote - battery or coding. A PST2 can read the codes for the alarm system which should tell a tech exactly what the problem is.
  24. Refer your OPC to Service Bulletin 4/99 5726 New Door Latch Striker (dated 12-17-99).
  25. No, it has the gel coat. What I was saying is that I think that is the raw bumper part number and it gets a different part number when it is coated - but the coated part number is usually on a sticker. Arguably it is a factory GT3 bumper - if you include the Aerokit in that. A "real" mk1 GT3 had a center radiator - so where is the cutout? Don't get me wrong it has a Porsche logo on the back. I think it is an aerokit bumper - which is a GT3 bumper look alike. IF you don't ever want a 3rd radiator then it is a mute point.
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