Loren

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Edit - July 25, 2006 - Updated the clutch bleeding procedure to the latest procedure as outlined in supplement 98 of the Carrera Service Manual - Loren) Parts you will need: 1 liter (minimum) 000 043 203 66 Porsche DOT 4 Brake Fluid or equal (ATE Gold or ATE Super Blue) Tools you will need: Jack 19 mm socket for wheel bolts Motive Power Bleeder (or equal) image Needle Nose Pliers 11 mm wrench for brakes; 9 mm for clutch slave (sizes vary from car to car but they are usually 9 mm or 11 mm) Plastic tubing and waste container (at least 1 liter) Jack up the vehicle at the lift points provided and remove the rear wheel (you will need to do this for each wheel). Remove the cap on the master cylinder reservoir. Remove the plastic screen using a pair of needle nose pliers. This can be a little bit challenging but it will pop off (be careful with the brake fluid.. it eats paint!) Use a syringe (or turkey baster... just don't reuse it) and suck out as much of the old fluid as possible. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with new fluid. Put the rest in the power bleeder. Screw the cap that came with the power bleeder onto the master cylinder reservoir. Put the pressure cap with the pump handle on the power bleeder and pump it up to just under 20 psi - do not go over 20 psi! Bleed order - Right rear, Left rear, Right front, Left front. Place your drain tube over the outside bleed nipple and in the bottle (remember it will need to hold a liter when you are done). Bleed the outer bleeder valve first. Open each bleeder valve until clear, bubble free brake fluid emerges. Take care to bleed at each brake caliper and at both bleeder valves. Carefully tighten the bleed screw. Wipe off the area and replace the rubber protective cap over the bleed screw. Repeat steps 8-10 for the interior bleed screw. Then reinstall the wheel and move on to the next wheel. Note: It makes sense to check the pressure and amount of fluid in the tank between wheels. Running out of fluid means starting over and getting air out. Optional Clutch Bleeding This is best done when you are bleeding the left (driver's side) rear wheel as the clutch bleed valve is mounted high above the axle on the transmission. Push the clutch pedal in by hand (very slowly) and use a long piece of wood to hold the pedal down. I wedged the other end (of the wood) between the seat and door frame -- with plenty of soft padding to avoid scratches. A second option is to have a 2nd person sit in the car and keep the clutch pedal FULLY depressed. Open the clutch bleeder valve until clear, bubble free brake fluid emerges (at least 30 seconds according to Porsche). Remove the wood. Then, pump the pedal again very slowly by hand for a further 60 seconds. After pressing the pedal down fully about 10 to 15 times, leave the pedal in its normal position. After allowing a fill time of 90 seconds, check that no more air bubbles appear at the bleeder valve (use a collecting bottle with a transparent hose). Then close the bleeder valve. Wipe off the area and replace the rubber protective cap over the bleed screw. You may notice that the clutch pedal does not return... so carefully pull it up (slowly) to it's normal position. Then depress it (slowly) a few (at least 5) times. In a few cycles the feel should return. [*]Torque the wheels bolts to 96 ftlb. (130 Nm). [*]Do a final check on the brake fluid level and top up if needed.

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 1 996 110 253 01 Fuel Filter - for 2WD cars or 1 996 110 253 52 Fuel Filter - for 4WD cars Tools you will need: Tire ramps or jack (and jack stands) Various screwdrivers to remove underbody cover For the C2 the fuel filter is located in the tunnel area facing the center unit above the coolant pipes (up to and including MY01). For the C4 the fuel filter is located in the engine compartment, strapped to the coolant tank (up to and including MY01). MY02 and newer cars have the fuel filter incorporated in the fuel pump - and usually does not need to be changed. This DIY is for MY01 and older cars. Remove cover for rear and center underbody. (photo courtesy Tool Pants) Pull off ground cable on filter. Then release the rapid-action couplings by pressing on the grey surfaces and remove the fuel lines. Collect emerging fuel. Loosen the large hose clamp on the filter and remove the filter element. Re-install a new filter element and tighten the hose clamp. Join the rapid-action couplings of the fuel lines. The plug connections must engage audibly. Then push the ground cable onto the filter element. Replace the cover for the rear and center underbody.

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 1 each 996 102 151 64 (or 996 102 151 66) Polyrib Belt (with air conditioning) or 1 each 996 102 151 65 Polyrib Belt (without air conditioning) Tools you will need: 13 mm socket or wrench (for air cleaner) Regular screwdriver (for air cleaner) 24 mm socket or wrench (for belt pulley) Remove air cleaner housing. Mark belt travel direction with a coloured pen (if you intend to reuse it). Note: Never remove Polyrib belt when warm. The belt will deform and could be damaged. Turn the tensioning roller 7 on the socket wrench (wrench size 24 mm) clockwise and simultaneously remove the belt from the drive pulleys. Visually inspect the condition of the belt and replace it if necessary. Check belt pulley for damage. Install Polyrib belt in the order shown. Twist the tensioning roller 7 clockwise and simultaneously place the belt on the idler pulley 8. Subsequently relieve the tensioning roller slowly. Visually check whether the belt is correctly positioned on all pulleys. Reinstall the air cleaner housing

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 3-4 liters 999 917 546 00 (Shell) Shell Transaxle (75W-90) or Mobil Mobilube PTX (75W-90) Approved Manual Transmission Oils 000 043 204 20 Mobil (Mobilube PTX) - 20 liter container 000 043 204 19 Shell (Transaxle) - 20 liter container 999 917 546 00 Shell (Transaxle) - 1 liter container Note: All are synthetic GL4 and GL5 rated (or "non-conventional processing") oils. GL oils have good light running properties because of their light low-temperature viscosity as well as a high level of temperature stability. Tools you will need: Tire ramps or jack 17 mm allen for the fill plug 16 mm triple square with a hole in the middle for the drain plug Note: Most later cars have an 10 mm allen type plugs - we recommend checking before you start. 3 quart oil catch pan Torque wrench (optional) Drain Transmission Oil Transmission oil should be changed when the engine/transmission has reached normal operating temperature. CAUTION - oil will be hot, take adequate precautions to avoid being burned. Use ramps or jack up the vehicle at the points provided. Remove underside panels to access the transmission. (Boxster owners you need to loosen the diagonal braces and then remove the transverse strut member. A little more work on a Boxster. When you put them back they need to have the bolts torqued to 48 ft lbs. (65 nm). See images Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 Image 4 Image 5 ) (images courtesy of scherb) Place oil collection pan under the transmission (at least 9 quarts). Always dispose of the waste oil in accordance with local legal requirements. Unscrew oil filler screw (1). Unscrew oil drain screw (2) and drain transmission oil. Wait about 20 minutes for all the old oil to drain. Fill Transmission Oil Clean oil drain and oil filler screw. Screw in oil drain screw. Tightening torque: 22 ft-lb. Fill with gear oil up to the bottom edge of the oil filler opening. Screw in oil filler screw. Tightening torque: 22 ft-lb. Install underside panels. Model/Capacity (approx.) Manual Transmission 911 Carrera (G96/00) - 2.7 liters 911 Carrera 4 (G96/30) - 2.7 liters GT3 - 3.3 liters Boxster (G86/00) - 2.25 liters Turbo - 3.0 (to 3.8) liters Front-axle Final Drive 911 Carrera 4 (Z96/00) - 1.5 liters Turbo - 1.5 liters

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 6 ea 999 170 207 91 Spark Plugs (Beru 14FGR 6KQU) MY99-MY01 or 6 ea 999 170 223 90 Spark Plugs (Beru FGR 5KQE0) MY02 Tools you will need: Jack 19 mm socket for wheel bolts Snap-On S9706 Spark Plug Socket Snap-On FXW4 (4 inch) Extension (or any 3/8" drive extension that allows at least 16 degrees of offcenter movement) 3/8" Ratchet 5 mm hex allen socket or 5 mm allen wrench Torque wrench Note: Most find that removing the muffler first (a 15 minute job) will make spark plug replacement much much easier (and faster). Jack up the vehicle at the lift points provided and remove the rear wheel (you will need to do this for each side).<br></li><li>Remove the 2 fastening screws (M6 x 20) of the shields on the cylinder heads and remove the plates. Disconnect connection cable of the ignition coils. Check for damage and replace if needed Remove the two fastening screws (M6 x 25) of the plug coils and remove the 6 plug coils. You may find it easier to remove the top 5 MM socket cap screws first. Then remove the bottom screws. Unscrew the spark plugs using the spark-plug wrench. Remove the spark plug and install the new plug by hand. Do not use any anti-seize or any other lubricant on the plug threads! Use the socket extension minus the ratchet to get the plug started. Always turn the plug counterclockwise until you feel it seat. This insures that the plug is in the threads on the cylinder head so there is no concern about cross threading it. Then turn it clockwise until it is as tight as I can get it by hand. IF YOU CAN'T TURN IT BY HAND THEN IT IS NOT THREADED PROPERLY When the plugs are hand tightened, attach the ratchet and tighten it a little. Then use the torque wrench to finish the job. Tighten new spark plugs to 22 ft-lb. Push on plug coils and tighten the fastening screws (M6 x 25) to 7.5 ft-lb. Reinstall the bottom screws first and then top. Subsequently push on the connecting cable of the plug coils. Refit the two shields and tighten the fastening screws to 7.5 ft-lb. Re-install the wheel(s) and lower vehicle. Torque the wheels bolts to 96 ftlb. (130 Nm)

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Images are for LHD cars - RHD cars will be on the opposite side. Parts you will need: 1 ea 996 571 219 03 Pollen Filter (Charcoal activated filter) Tools you will need: T25 Torx drive Remove T25 Torx screw that holds the panel cover in place (passenger side front trunk). Remove the panel cover. Remove the particle filter upwards and out of the housing guide. Insert a new particle filter into the housing guide. Check that the filter is correctly fitted and in the correct installation position. Replace the panel cover. Tighten T25 Torx screw that holds the panel cover in place.

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 1 ea 996 110 131 52 Air Filter or equal (BMC or K&N Filter) Tools you will need: 13 mm socket or wrench Regular screwdriver Phillips screwdriver Remove hexagon-head bolt M6 x 34. (13 mm wrench) Loosen the hose clamp on the throttle body and remove the connection of the sucking jet pumps (not present on early cars). Pull connecting plug off the mass air flow sensor by squeezing the connector clips. Then unclip the cable on the air cleaner housing. Subsequently unclip the oil filler snorkel. Remove the whole air cleaner housing out of the engine compartment. Unscrew the 7 (phillips) fastening screws on the air cleaner housing and remove the upper part of the air cleaner. Subsequently remove the cleaner element. Clean air cleaner housing. Insert new filter element and replace the upper part of the air cleaner housing (BMC filter shown). Tighten the 7 fastening screws. Place the air cleaner housing in the engine compartment again. Make sure that the rubber mount of the air cleaner housing is still seated in the body. Tighten the air cleaner housing with the fastening screw M6 x 34, the screw is tightened with 7.5 ft-lb. Clip in oil filler neck again.. Reconnect the intake pipes on the throttle body. Retighten the hose clamp. Subsequently insert the connection for the sucking jet pump (again, if present) and mount the spring band clamp. Fit the connecting cable and clip into the holder on the air cleaner. Push the connecting plug on the mass air flow sensor.

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 1 ea 996 107 225 60 (for 3.6 liter engines) or 996 107 225 53 or 996 107 225 52 (for 3.4 liter engines) Oil Filter (with O-ring) 1 ea 900 123 106 30 Aluminum Sealing Ring 9 ea 996 106 665 55 Mobil 1 0W-40 or equal Approved Oils as of April 2007 The list is now very long (for worldwide coverage). Here is a short list of popular oils (US/Canada): Castrol Syntec 5W-40 5W-40L Mobil 1 0W-40 (factory fill) Mobil 1 5W-40 Mobil 1 5W-50 ChevronTexaco Havoline Ultra 5W-40 Tools you will need: Tire ramps or jack 8 mm allen wrench or allen hex socket Oil filter wrench (p/n 000 721 920 40) (tool 9204 about $7 to $22 at your dealer) 27 mm socket (or a wrench big enough to fit the oil filter wrench) 9 quart oil catch pan Torque wrench (optional) Locations shown on Carrera - Boxster will be turned 180 degrees. Oil should be changed when the engine has reached normal operating temperature. CAUTION - oil will be hot, take adequate precautions to avoid being burned. Use ramps or jack up the vehicle at the points provided. Remove the oil drain screw and collect the engine oil in a disposal container (at least 9 quarts). Always dispose of the waste oil in accordance with local legal requirements. Wait about 20 minutes for all the old oil to drain. Then clean the oil drain screw and screw it back in with a new aluminum sealing ring. Tightening torque is 37 ft-lb. Remove the oil filter housing with the oil filter wrench and unscrew the housing. Remove oil filter housing vertically downward. Drain remaining oil into a disposal container. Remove the filter element. Remove the filter downwards, drain and dispose of it in accordance with local legal requirements. Note: If the spindle/spring assembly sticks to the filter - remove it and push it back into the filter housing.<br /> Clean the oil filter housing 1 thoroughly inside and outside and replace the O-ring 3. The O-ring should not be levered off or on with a sharp object (e.g. screwdriver). A sharp object will damage the O-ring. Install the new filter element. Lightly apply oil to the O-ring and housing threads. Install oil filter housing and tighten to 19 ft-lb. Fill with engine oil after a draining time of approx. 20 minutes. Model/Capacity in Liters (US quarts) (approx.) 911 Carrera (3.4 liter engine) 8.50 liters (8.98 US quarts) 911 Carrera (3.6 liter engine) 8.25 liters (8.71 US quarts) Boxster 8.50 liters (8.98 US quarts) Note: Based on RFM's excellent recommendation we are suggesting that folks that do their own oil changes upgrade their oil drain plug to a stainless steel version of the drain plug. The original version is aluminum and strips very easily so this stainless steel version should eliminate that from happening. 900.219.015.00 SS Drain Plug -- US MSRP $21.40 -- Sunset Imports price $12.80