Loren

Try PMing the DIY author or get your parts list (including fiber optic cable) and then I can look up retail (MSRP).

It does not matter either method will work fine. Porsche believes the electronic method is accurate - witness the newer cars don't have the dipstick anymore. I usually measure the oil after it warm using the graphic display on the cluster. I would only add oil if you have one or two bars showing - and then I would only add 1/2 liter (or 1/2 quart).

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3404

Is the o-ring in the oil cap? You will need to take the car to Autozone or another shop that will read the codes for free. Then report back here what (all) the codes are.

Yes, only black. 996 555 557 10 A03 Cover (black) -- Retail $44.92 (as of Oct 2005)

Available as an RoW part - yet both show up in the US price list: 955 642 130 01 Voice Activation Module -- Retail $560.75 955 642 131 01 Voice Activation CD-ROM -- Retail $6.12

As far as I know it is because of the different fuel tank design in the C4 and it's sending unit/electronics. In the C4, the shape and configuration of the fuel tank (saddle-bag) prevent the fuel level sensing system from being able to physically read down to a level of 10 liters. Therefore, when the driving-distance-on-remaining-fuel calculation begins when the fuel reaches a level of about 19 liters (approx. 1/4 tank). As fuel is further consumed below 19 liters, the amount of fuel remaining in the tank is a calculated value. The calculated value is derived from the fuel consumption signal, and continues until the fuel tank is empty (unless the fuel tank is refilled). Whenever the fuel level is less than 19 liters and the ignition is switched off, the fuel-level and driving-distance- on-remaining-fuel values are stored in instrument cluster memory. If battery power is interrupted, these stored values are lost (erased from instrument cluster memory). Once lost, these values will not be automatically recalculated unless the fuel tank is filled with at least 19 liters (crossing the calculation-switchover threshold).

As I recall the DME is on the left and the Tiptronic is on the right. If you want to be safe disconnect the battery.

I think you can get to the connectors without removing the controllers. If the CEL was on (for the P0600 fault) then it should light at ignition "on". Maybe just another reason to check the DME connections.

Both controllers should be in the rear trunk. If that is your only code then you likely have two problems. I've never heard of a CAN bus problem causing a no start condition - IMHO that is more likely a bad ignition switch. Lot's of posts here about those and the intermittent/sporadic problems they cause.

P0600 CAN Timeout - Signal Implausible The CAN bus is a data transmission system specially developed for use in the vehicle. The CAN bus is bidirectional, i.e. each ECM connected to it can both send and receive. The CAN bus consists of a twisted two-core wire. In your model year car only the DME control module and Tiptronic control module are connected to it. A CAN timeout means that the DME control module was unable to establish a connection with the Tiptronic control module. Possible causes are: Open circuit - Wiring harness Short circuit to ground - Tiptronic control module not plugged in Short circuit to B+ - Tiptronic control module faulty Short circuit Check CAN bus from DME control module to Tiptronic control module for continuity. 1. Remove DME control module connector. 2. Remove Tiptronic control module connector. 3. Connect ohmmeter to DME control module connector, pin 85, and Tiptronic control module connector, pin 85. Display: 0-5 ohms 4. Connect ohmmeter to DME control module connector, pin 86, and Tiptronic control module connector, pin 86. Display: 0-5 ohms If infinite ohms is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage. Check CAN bus from DME control module to Tiptronic control module for short to ground. 1. Remove DME control module connector. 2. Remove Tiptronic control module connector. 3. Connect special tool 9616 to wiring harness (DME control module connector). 4. Connect ohmmeter to special tool 9616, pin 85, and ground. Display: infinite ohms 5. Connect ohmmeter to special tool 9616, pin 86, and ground. Display: infinite ohms If 0 - 5 ohms is displayed, check wiring for chafing and pinching damage. Check CAN bus from DME control module to Tiptronic control module for short to B+. 1. Remove DME control module connector. 2. Remove Tiptronic control module connector. 3. Connect special tool 9616 to wiring harness (DME control module connector). 4. Connect voltmeter to special tool 9616, pin 85, and ground. Switch on the ignition. Display: 0 V 5. Connect voltmeter to special tool 9616, pin 86, and ground. Switch on the ignition. Display: 0 V If battery voltage is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage. Check CAN bus from DME control module to Tiptronic control module for short circuit. 1. Remove DME control module connector. 2. Remove Tiptronic control module connector. 3. Connect special tool 9616 to wiring harness (DME control module connector). 4. Connect ohmmeter to special tool 9616, pins 85 and 86. Display: = infinite ohms if 0 - 5 ohms is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage.

Are you asking about a PCM2 retrofit? If so there is a DIY here.

Brake caliper to front wheel carrier M16 x 1.5 270 Nm (200 ftlb.) Brake caliper to rear wheel carrier M14 x 1.5 180 Nm (133 ftlb.) Brake disc to wheel hub (front and rear axles) M12 x 1.5 14 Nm (10.5 ftlb.) Plug rear brake disc 14 Nm (10.5 ftlb.) Brake cover plate to front axle M8 x 12 20 Nm (15 ftlb.) Brake caliper to rear wheel carrier: M8 x 16 20 Nm (15 ftlb.) M6 x 12 8 Nm(6 ftlb.)

Have a look here.

Yes, that is a C4 cluster for your model year.

You will need to find a dealer, independent shop, racer, or other private individual that has a PST2 or PIWIS Porsche tester. Where are you located? (photo courtesy of ukchris)

All of the 996 hardtops are the same (Boxster hardtops are different). I don't know the size or shipping weight - perhaps someone else has that information.

I have now posted the 997 MOST cable kits here (see pinned posts). There are separate kits for C2 and C4 - be sure to choose the right list.

Here is the C4 table of kits for MOST bus optioned cars. You will need to check what options you already have in order to get the right kit. See the additional table legends and locations below.

Here is the C2 table of kits for MOST bus optioned cars. You will need to check what options you already have in order to get the right kit. See the additional table legends and locations below.

The oil change DIY is here. This is for the Carrera but the Boxster is the same.

I sent you a PM with instructions.

You should be all set now. Thank you for your support. Look in the 997 section for TSB 2/05 2601 Sport Exhaust System Installation Instructions (I No. XLF)

That is covered in a 14 page TSB from Porsche. Contributing Members can read all TSBs online here. Contributions help defer the cost of running this site and providing this information to you. No one has to contribute but many members do. Without contributions this site would either have to go subscription or cease to exist.

If the SSK kit does not return to neutral then you tightened the adjusting nut too tight. The key is to test while you are tightening. Tighten the nut until you just start to see loss of free play in neutral - then back it off 1/4 to 1/2 turn. it will not hurt to have it a little loose. My very early SSK does not even have the adjusting capability.