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Loren

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Everything posted by Loren

  1. Loren
    Do you know if Porsche made a TSB for this? If so, I might be able to dig it up...
  2. Loren
    Well, that was the most likely possibility. If it is not the overflow then perhaps the new tank sensor fitting is leaking?
  3. Loren
    Bank 1 is Cylinders 1 - 3 so that would be the left side (driver's side for LHD cars). There are two O2 sensors for each bank of the engine - one before the cat and one after the cat. You want to inspect/replace the one after the cat (muffler side) on the left side of the engine.
  4. Loren
    Time to find a new dealer....
  5. Loren
    Check the wiring on that O2 sensor and/or clean the electrical connections (while it is cool). If that does not cure it you will need a new O2 sensor. Those codes indicate the heater circuit is failing in that O2 sensor - not that uncommon.
  6. Loren
    We have added the MY06 Cayenne S Titanium (US) Order Guide.
  7. Loren
    Why did you post this again? I answered your first post.
  8. Loren
    Well... the TSB says "Replace fastening bolts on the intermediate shaft flange. Since the intermediate shaft flange is loaded by the chain tensioners, the fastening bolts must be replaced only one at a time." Porsche uses a special tool (9642) to postion and hold the intermediate shaft.
  9. Loren
    Careful - that is not legal in many states.
  10. Loren
    Check your tank cap. If there is residue around the the cap/tank top then it maybe leaking. Make sure your cap part number ends in 01 - all the 00 caps are known to leak.
  11. Loren
    The wire with the brown stripe is negative.
  12. Loren
    http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=45536
  13. Loren
    Yes, it does work on that model year range (Boxster and Carrera). I posted this link some time ago with more detail (from AudiWorld.com) http://www.audiworld.com/tech/int5.shtml
  14. Loren
    Well, I can disconnect the MAF on my car and the car runs pretty much okay - short term. I still recommend that you find the source of the codes or at lest reset them and see if they come back.
  15. Loren
    Go to Autozone and have them read the fault code for free. There are a few hundred things that can cause a CEL - some are minor (like a loose gas cap) and will reset themselves - others are more serious. If the light came on then one or more of the brake sensors is worn through. The fronts usually wear much faster than the rears since they do most of the braking. If you replace the brakes yourself it is likely less than $300 or about $180 for the fronts only. If you put too many more miles on the car after the sensor has come on you risk damaging the rotors and worst having a brake failure.
  16. Loren
    IMHO - if nothing is wrong with the clutch then don't spend the money.
  17. Loren
    If your car is under warranty then the RMS should be replaced under warranty. The clutch would only be replace (under warranty) if it is oil soaked from the RMS leak. Normal wear would not warrant a new clutch under warranty. A clutch replacement with the transmission already out for an RMS would not run you more than one additional hour of labor. Clutch parts will depend on what needs to be replaced - clutch disc, throw-out bearing, and flywheel if damaged. That could be a few hundred to $2000 (flywheels are expensive - $900 plus).
  18. Loren
    I suggest you find someone with a PST2 (or PIWIS) tester so that you can see what your MAF and TRA/FRA are doing and determine of you have an intake leak or a bad MAF. A PST2 can also test your EVAP purge valve. Fuel vapors are collected in the EVAP canister. As the EVAP canister can only accommodate a certain amount of fuel vapors, the fuel vapors must be taken in and combusted during driving. For this to occur, the EVAP canister purge valve opens. Due to the vacuum predominating in the intake manifold, air is sucked up via the purge air line through the EVAP canister. The air sucked up in this way draws the collected fuel vapors with it. Most of the time when you have a bad EVAP purge valve it also fails the startup test - which gives another fault code also.
  19. Loren
    From the TSB (which Contributing Members can view): I would say you have the older heat range 5 unless they have been changed.
  20. Loren
    http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=34937
  21. Loren
    Chances are there is something on the seal and it needs to be replaced.
  22. Loren
    They can't be overridden to my knowledge - besides your car would never pass any smog test. P1128 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 - Below Limit P1130 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 - Below Limit Since both side of the engine are reporting it -- what that tells me is that you have one more of the following: - an air leak somewhere in the intake system - a bad or dirty MAF - a bad or sticking EVAP purge valve
  23. Loren
    :welcome: Tire Rack and Custom Alignment (Mountain View) install - under $1000 DIY Brakes - under $300 (as long as rotors are still good) IMHO....
  24. Loren
    Not on a MY03 or newer... The newer cars use fiber optics connections between the amp and radio/Nav. If you want to go 3rd party on a newer car you have to replace everything and add wiring.
  25. Loren
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