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Loren

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Everything posted by Loren

  1. You can not put a PCM2 in a pre-MY03 car. IMHO PCM1 (if you could get all the parts) is not worth it. For a preMY03 car I think after market is likely the best. Do a search and you will find quite a few after market threads here.
  2. I show a new control unit (996.618.262.03) has an MSRP of $346.10. But, like we said it would need to be programmed by a dealer. For legal reasons only a dealer can do that. If you are getting a chirp is could be the passenger compartment motion sensor - not too common but still possible. Knowing what we know now (many fault codes) I would sort the key and control box first since a bad control box could certainly cause all kind of crazy things.
  3. If you decide to take the seat out make sure the key is NOT in the ignition - or you will get an airbag light. Just putting the key in the ignition (not even on) activates the airbag circuit. Fault 33/34 is fairly common and we suspect that the sensor has seen some movement just prior arming. I would not be very worried about this one as it usually does not mean a problem. Fault 42 - Do you have a second key to try? This will let you know if the transponder is working or not in the first key. If the second key works then that says the problem is in the first key. If the second key does not work then you are back to the control unit. Fault 54 - What year is your car? and is your car US/Canada or RoW? (US cars do not have the tilt sensor). Fault 16 - The airbag should light when you first turn the ignition key to "on". If it does not then the bulb is likely out. Faults 47/60/10 - The result from the second key test will be important here because many of these are also transponder errors. If the second key works then the first key is bad. If the second key does not work either then - assuming no damaged cables or loose connections the control box is likely bad. If that is the case you will need a PST2 or PIWIS to transfer the program (including key codes) to the new control box. Hope this helps some...
  4. I'm sure there are less expensive versions of the same tool...
  5. Sounds like it is not properly aligned. I think your dealer needs to fix that since they did the work.
  6. Well it would be at the bottom of the tach on both the older instrument cluster and the new one. It will be different display if it is a MY02 style cluster. The MY02 and newer clusters are dot matrix - so there is more info they can display than the older LCD ones. The MY02 and newer also require that they be turned on in two places - the DME and the cluster (with a PST2 or PIWIS tester). The older LCD version you only turned on in the cluster.
  7. Did you have the car aligned after the height changes? Bump steer will be a little worse on a lowered car because the suspension travels less (distance). All US/Canada cars have OBC which will display the temperature as the default readout - when it is turned on. On early cars it is just a matter of turning the OBC on with a PST2 or PIWIS.
  8. Wow! a lot of codes. A number of no voltage faults. Is the control box wet? or are the connecting cables loose? or are the cables under the seat damaged?
  9. "Detaching steering return line In order to detach the line from the supply tank, push the red unlocking ring forward (arrows) and simultaneously pull out the line. Use two plastic spatulas to press the unlocking ring." "Detaching steering return line from the supply tank with (SnapOn No. A177A) tool The line can also be detached using a commercially available tool. Insert tool between line and the red unlocking ring and unlock. Pull line to the rear and simultaneously press the tool against the red ring. Carefully protect the line against dirt and scratches with a cap."
  10. The Porsche part is a part of the X51 kit. Alone it may help some but the X51 get another oil pickup, dual-chamber suction pump, and separate routing of the oil return lines. But then an X51 kit is about $10,000 plus installation cost.
  11. I don't think you are going to know if it is the IMS or RMS (or both) without removing the transmission and flywheel.
  12. The pump is in the left wheel arch. You will need to partially remove the wheel well liner to get to the pump/hoses. Could be a hose came off the pump or is broken there.
  13. I drove my car with the MAF disconnected for two days once. It just lacked upper end power.
  14. Only the C4 has slightly different ducts (beginning in MY04). The C2 and Boxster are the same.
  15. On the 996 series the GT3 ducts are smaller than the GT3RS. On the 997 series the GT3 and GT3RS get the same ducts (at this time). On the 996 GT3 Mk1 (RoW version) the ducts were the same as the production Carrera's. With the MY04 GT3 (Mk2) the GT3 got the same ducts the (then ) current Cup Cars were using. When the GT3RS (RoW version) was introduced the ducts got even larger. The Cup Cars for that model year were then even larger. I don't have a service book for the 997 GT3 Cup Car. Might be good to get a set of spares - the larger ones will scrape and I've heard of someone knocking one off too.
  16. Paul, Your car should have the ducts - all 996 and 997's do. If you want to put the GT3RS ones on then they look like the pic above. Your stock ducts look the same except smaller.
  17. Get the VIN and then process it through Scouser's VIN Decoder here.
  18. Nice pics! Is it just me or are the rear spoilers getting taller and taller ever year? Looks like it is almost even with the roof line now. Reminds me of the 70's Chaparral's...
  19. "in the Maintenance Book" is one place. Sometimes it is required on your vehicle registration. Otherwise you will need to tell us the exact model year, body style, etc. of your car. Oh, and whether it is a US/Canada car or RoW.
  20. My honest opinion... lose the 19" wheels. IMHO with the PSS9's you want a little more sidewall rubber (and fewer bent wheels).
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