Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Loren

Admin
  • Posts

    37,511
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    568

Everything posted by Loren

  1. If you are really concerned you should drain the oil and look for signs of coolant. If the oil is clean you can just put it back in.
  2. Was it really oil or carbon? If it was oil you have another problem. If it was carbon then just clean everything and if the ICV does not move freely it will need to be replaced.
  3. I think this will depend on the version of PCM (hardware) that you currently have. In some cases the hardware has to be changed out because it can not be updated. In some cases all you need is the DVD.
  4. I believe that is a 968 emblem (944.559.220.03.70C logo in rally black) - re-arranged.
  5. In some cases you will also meed a firmware upgrade that can only be done with a Porsche PIWIS tester by your OPC. Many dealers will do the firmware upgrade for free since the car is under warranty.
  6. If you don't know your radio code then get us the last four digits of the radio serial number and we will see if we can help.
  7. No, D9 is the amp fuse. I'd start checking cables - if someone moved stuff behind the dash then it is pretty easy to accidentally detach a cable.
  8. If you have an amp did you check that fuse too? Perhaps a cable is unplugged?
  9. The toe can be correct and the steering still be off. It is a case of turning each tie rod equal amounts to get the proper toe - without misaligning the steering wheel.
  10. Fuel injection systems do not tolerate water like old carburetors did. I've seen cars make it home and then not start at all the next day - water in the gas.
  11. Just so we can rule it our... when did you last fill up with gas?
  12. Perhaps we can find a member with a PST2 or Durametric Software to see what the actual values of some of the sensors are.
  13. I couldn't find a section on that in the 993 service manual. Perhaps this parts diagram will help.
  14. It's pretty simple. Once the two screws are out you lift the ash tray out and remove wire from the light and press the switches out (remember which one goes on which side). Then to install put the switches in one at a time making sure that they snap into place. Since there is no light in the new non-smoker tray you just leave the wire from the ash tray light unplugged (but out of the way). Put the two screws in and the rubber mat and you are done.
  15. I would start by looking for a loose front swaybar mounts. Those are fairly common. Next I would check the shock tower bolts.
  16. In the US OPC is the dealership. The dealer can reset the counter and erase the message (with their PIWIS tester).
  17. Hmm... never noticed that before. Likely a misprint because I know folks have ordered this kit and gotten everything they need.
  18. Yes, I don't see this as useful Porsche content - so I am closing this thread.
  19. That is the correct part number. Since it is a "kit" there is always the chance that one or parts is holding up the order. Here is itemized list:
  20. For folks wanting to do this... Chuck Jones and I did the latch replacement today and Chuck shot a bunch of pictures. I will post a DIY with pics soon. Nothing really to hard here. The canister comes out with a little wiggling (disconnect the vent and electrical lines first). The actuator itself is a bit tough to get to and you will need a really short T-20 Torx head to loosen the two screws. I say loosen because that is all you need to do to remove the part - it sits in two "U" shaped slots. BTW... Chuck's alarm problem was not the actuator - he has a bad front hood microswitch (thanks to my trusty PST).
  21. I'm pretty sure it is the same radiator but in the RS the radiator is tilted the opposite direction and the ducts are different.
  22. Ah... If you look at the $247 package it reads "Enthusiast Package This package is designed for the Porsche enthusiast that works on there own car. It offers all of the great features as our professional kit but will only work on up to 3 cars." My guess is that too many shops were buying the software and using it - while Durametric got no additional income. Or you bought it and use it on all your friends cars - then they don't need to buy it. Seems fair to me. They have an excellent product - they deserve the money they make.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.