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Loren

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Everything posted by Loren

  1. It only lights when the cruise stalk button is pushed.
  2. They should test the cluster using a PST2. It is possible that it got a voltage spike and is now ruined. If you had over 62.14 miles on the odometer then it can not be reset by a dealer or PST2 (or PIWIS) tester. Only a certified speedometer shop could reset it. Like I said I quest whether the cluster is fully functional - so it needs to be tested. They can clear the airbag fault with a PST2 easily. You need to post the radio serial number in the "Lost Radio Code" thread and I will give you the best guess for your code.
  3. Contributing Members can view TSBs online here. How to become a Contributing Member
  4. Try 9134 or 9132 I was finally able to drive for an hour so I can type the code suggested but they don't seem to work, any other suggestions? Thanks Did you read this thread? There are others suggestions you can try before calling a dealer or Becker (I believe Becker still charges $30 and some dealers are free and some charge).
  5. It seems to me that easiest source for the center console would be using the phone prep connector and extend the wires down the console (under the carpet). There is both +12 volts switched and unswitched on the phone prep connector. In the engine compartment? Well, you've got the alternator right there so there is lots of power close - but I would suggest a fuse for whatever you plan on connecting. What are thinking about adding in the engine compartment?
  6. IMHO of course... If I were to pick the "most reliable" Porsche to own right now it would be a GT3. With a normally aspirated engine that is the same as the 996 turbo it is about as close to being bulletproof as can get. Now a GT3 is a little less "comfortable" to drive than a Cayman, or Carrera, or TT but then that would depend on what you are looking for. Of those three a Cayman would certainly have a lot merits - mid-engine and more HP. I am not sure there is a bad choice there - so any would be okay.
  7. :lol: :lol: :lol: At this time I only have a 996. It all comes down to what you want to drive a Boxster (987), Carrera and TT are all Porsche's but very different. I suggest you test drive them all...
  8. :welcome: Please try our search next time - it works very well... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...post&p=9056
  9. Yes, but that is what it states on the sale page "DME 5.2.2" is non-egas cars only. Remember MY97-99 Boxsters use the same DME.
  10. Where are you located? I think you need someone with a PST2...
  11. Porsche does not recommend 11" wide wheels on the rear of a narrow (if they would fit at all). The tire sizes are okay but I would stick with the 10" rear (on a narrow body car). A 285/30 is fine on a 10" wheel. That is what I am running.
  12. That's your oil tank. If you tighten it be sure and support the upper nut (with a wrench) or you might twist it off the tank.
  13. As long as the tires have same N rating are paired on each axle - you should not have a problem. As a rule of thumb you need to be within 4% front to rear. Normally if the system is out of percentage and it is not happy it will throw fault codes. I doubt you far enough off to throw a code. Porsche says "If new tires are to be mounted or the tires of one axle are to be replaced, tires of the same make, the same type and with the same specification code must always be used on each of the two axles. If tires are replaced on one axle only, the different tread depth from that on the other axle can cause a noticeable change in the familiar handling. This is especially the case if new tires are mounted on the rear axle. This effect decreases with increasing tire mileage. Maximum permissible radial runout and lateral runout of the wheels < 0.7 mm. Maximum permissible radial runout and lateral runout of the wheels with tires < 1.25 mm. Values < 1.50 mm - ideally approx. 0.5 mm - are desirable. When replacing a tire on an axle, make sure that the tread depth of the new tire does not differ from that of the other tire by more than 30 %."
  14. Actually, with a PST2 or PIWIS you can test each individual alarm sensor in the car.
  15. Item 1 in the diagram is the part number Scouser is asking about.
  16. Yes, if you read the alarm fault codes with the Durametric Software, a PST2, or PIWIS tester. It will likely tell you where the alarm faults are.
  17. Did you try to order the old part number (996.107.243.40)?
  18. As of January 2008 the only side vents listed in the parts list are titanium metallic - so I think you would have to paint them. US MSRP $55.79 each
  19. Are you sure there was no ice/snow on the sensor? It is out there in the open.
  20. Randy - I have merged your two topics - please do not double post.
  21. Do you mean the lid for the passenger airbag? (item 44)
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