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Loren

Admin
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Everything posted by Loren

  1. We are not rennlisters here... we are RennTech'ers. Adjusting selector lever cable 1. Move selector lever to "P" position. 2. Lever off cable on transmission lever using a commercially available removal tool. 3. Disengage cable at adjuster. To do this, slide the locking sleeve (1) forward and turn it clockwise to removal position. 4. Check installation dimension of the end piece It must be 12 mm + or - 0.5 mm. 5. Press end piece onto the transmission lever using a pair of pliers. 6. Engage cable on the selector support into the open adjuster (1) and close the adjuster (3). The locking sleeve must move to the end position automatically. 7. Check adjustment. To do this, select all gears and check whether the gear is indicated in the right-hand instrument cluster. Also change gates from "D"to "M". A straight movement must be possible without catching. Note: Minor corrections can be made on the cable end piece.
  2. I've replaced the wheel twice on my '02 C4S. I disconnected the battery, removed the airbag, then the wheel. I didn't wait the thirty minutes that you mentioned, and have never had a problem with a warning light. One note: be sure to have your radio code handy. You'll need it after re-connecting the battery. Good luck, but you won't need it. This is an easy DIY project. Ken On RoW cars the alarms are wired differently - On RoW cars most folks just turn the ignition on before removing the battery to avoid alarm problems.
  3. 999.141.047.01 Torx (E12) bolts -- MSRP $1.06 each (as of March 2008)
  4. Lost Radio Code - FAQ -- PLEASE READ THIS FIRST
  5. What model year and what car? What are you trying to do? a repair? or ?
  6. Which bolt? If you are removing item 24 or 25 you are doing it the hard way. Remove the three 13 mm nuts instead (item 16) that hold bracket item 28. Much easier IMHO.
  7. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=39144
  8. The RoW M030 kit for a MY99 is the same for a Boxster S and a Boxster with a Tiptronic. 000.044.500.22 Parts in this kit should be: 986 343 041 30 shock absorber 986 333 051 30 shock absorber 986 343 531 11 504 coil spring 986 333 531 31 504 coil spring 996 343 792 17 stabiliser mounting 996 333 792 28 stabiliser mounting 986 333 701 21 stabiliser 996 343 701 23 stabiliser
  9. The clips that hold the side panels and tail stock pieces and of course... your lock. Sometimes they come with the donor console and sometimes they don't.
  10. The Porsche part numbers for the 986 and 987 bleeding screws are the same.
  11. Yes, but remember you may want/need to transfer some of the hardware and panels from one to the other.
  12. We have added and/or updated TSBs in the following categories (9 TSBs total): 987 - 1 Cayman - 1 997 - 1 997 TT - 1 997 GT3 - 1 Cayenne (gen 1) - 2 Cayenne (gen 2) - 2 Notable additions are: Cayenne S/Turbo MY2008 only - W738 – Re-Programming DME (DFI) Control Unit (Workshop Campaign) (US, PR, and Canada) "This is to inform you of a voluntary Workshop Campaign on certain 2008 model year Cayenne S and Cayenne Turbo vehicles. There is the possibility that the opening pressure of the oil spray jets does not comply with the specifications. Under certain operating conditions this may lead to the warning "Oil pressure too low" appearing in the multi-function display. In order to avoid engine damage as a result of excessively low oil pressure, the vehicle must not be driven when the warning "Oil pressure too low" is active." "A total of 3072 U.S., Puerto Rican and Canadian vehicles fall within the scope of this Workshop Campaign. Very Important! Use the VIN range below as a general guideline. The VIN can be checked in the WWS for confirmation of an open workshop campaign (Also see PIWIS VIN Information). Refer to Attachment “B” to determine if a particular vehicle is eligible for this workshop campaign. Also, the VIN can be checked via the VRU (Voice Response System) for any open listing."
  13. If they both do not work and you have checked the fuses (they are fused individually) then you likely need a new headlight switch.
  14. It's no big deal. The idea behind the Links section is that people don't have to go hunting through posts for links to common destinations. Anyone (members) can add links to the Link section. They all get approved by a Moderator or Admin so they are kept non-commercial and relevant.
  15. Just an FYI... This link is already in the Links section.
  16. So if I simply clean all contacts will the light eventually go away (assuming it's because of oxidized contacts)? Or do I have to actively do something more to turn off the light? I just got the airbag light during my evening ride, so it's annoying the hell out of me ... What's the cheapest way to turn the **** light off?? Find someone near you with the Durametric software, a PST2 or PIWIS tester.
  17. If you need to move the car between the brake bleeding of each wheel - the only reliable brake you will have will be the hand brake. Please be very careful if you decide to do that. If you don't use jack stands - then for safeties sake put the tire/wheel under the car while you work on it.
  18. 1. Yes, you can do one wheel at a time - in the proper sequence. 2. A small wrench will work fine. 3. You will need less new brake fluid (less intermixing) if you remove most of the old fluid from the reservoir first. 4. You should see no bubbles when the fluid is coming out bleed valve. If you see bubbles then it is not yet clear of air. You should have a nice firm brake pedal.
  19. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=14446 There are two fuses for the radio - one on the panel near the left door sill and the other is on the back of the radio (requires removing the radio).
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