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Very easy task. You first have to jack the car and have it level properly. Tool needed: 10 mm allen wrench for the transmission ports. I got one mount on a socket. 17 mm socket for the front wheel drive transmission. 10mm sockets for the cover plastic nuts Very small and thin common screwdriver for the panel clips. Torque wrench. A pump for the fluid. I use a Motive Power Fill (about $85.00 with a shut-off valve) Parts needed: About 5 (1/4) liters of Mobilube PTX 75W90. I did not choose any alternate oil. I prefer to stay with Porsche and Loren recommendation! Be ready for a chock, this oil is expensive!!! Here in Montreal I could only found 20 liters container and I finally went to the dealer and he charge me $261.00 for 5 liters!!!!! And a crush washer for the transmission drain part # 900 123 118 30 ($0.52) Note : It is the only port with a sealing ring. Lets start with the front wheel drive transmission. First you have to remove the plastic cover. It is held with 6 clips and 4 plastic nuts. The best way I've found to remove those clips without damaging them is to use a small thin screwdriver and release the small clip through the opening on one side. Panel removed: Now you can see the drain port: And the fill port: Drain the fluid by opening both ports: Note: My drain port had a magnet to pickup metal chips. (There was sludge and little bit of metal shaving, normal wear to me) And reinstall the drain plug when no oil is coming out anymore: Torque is 21 ftlb for both ports. And fill through the fill port until fluid is coming out. Let it drain and when it stop you can look at the level with a mirror. It should be equal with the bottom edge of the port. About 1.5 liters is needed. Having a shut-off valve and a level indicator on the fill bottle was really useful. Reinstall the fill port and torque to 21 ftlb. And reinstall the plastic cover....Thats it for the front wheel drive transmission. The transmission is easy to reach. No panel to remove. An 10mm allen wrench is needed to remove the ports. Remove the fill and drain ports. Drain the fluid. Note: A magnet is install on the drain port and had metal but was the first oil change and suppose to be normal.... Reinstall the drain plug with a new seal part# 900 123 118 30 and torque the plug to 22 ftlb. Fill the transmission through the fill port until level comes to the bottom edge of the port. About 3 liters needed. Reinstall the fill plug (no seal needed) and torque to 22 ftlb. Hope this will help any TT owners out there! Do not hesitate to ask questions or add comments. Thanks, J.P.

Parts required: ( I did this as inexpensive as possible) Steel tow bumper bought on ebay (200bucks) 955-618-040-10 Control Unit 955-612-506-00 Wiring Harness PNA-955-118-93 Trailer Hitch Connector (this is the 7 pin Pollak connector) PNA 955-127-08 7-4 way Adapter N-909-892-01 bumper bolts (8) Tools required: Allen key set 10mm wrench screw driver 1/4" ratchet torx driver set flashlight 21mm socket torque wrench Step 1: Remove spare tire floor by pulling hatch out towards the rear. There are no bolts that hold this in. Step 2: Use the torx bits to remove the chrome tie downs on the passenger side as well as the bolt closest to the hatch Step 3: After removing the side carpeted piece, there will be two additional screws underneath that hold the vertical carpeting piece in Step 4: Remove pillar cover on passenger side. Pull plastic cover labeled "airbag" off and remove screw underneath. Carelly work cover free at the top first. Step 5: Remove the exposed screw on the lower portion of the pillar Step 6: Disconnect trunk light Step 7: Remove the passenger side net anchor screws Step 8: Pull the passenger side section down. The clips are very tight, so be careful when prying the plastic. This is where the clip locations are. Step 9: Slowly pry passenger side pillar cover off, starting at the top. Once you reach the speaker, be sure to disconnect the wire as shown. Step 10: Remove screw that is now exposed on the rear pillar Step 11: Carefully pull the passenger side carpet panel out as shown. Step 12: Use the flashlight and look in between the carpet panel and the inner fender well. Pull out the pre-located harness plug, roughly half way in towards the front as shown. The plug is RED Step 13: Pull out and connect to the module. Plugs are specific so it will only fit into the center plug. Leave hanging for later use. Step 14: Remove both tail light allen bolts on the inside of the hatch area. They will be covered by two plastic plugs as seen below. Step 15: Carefully pry tail lights straight out towards the rear. There are 2 clips, one forward, and one rear on each lense. Disconnect harness and set aside. Step 16: Remove both torx screws on the bumper cover that were previously under the tail lights Step 17: In each fender well, remove the torx screws, starting in the rear, moving to the top of the fender. No need to remove all of them, you just need to access a hidden screw under the fender liner. Step 18: Remove hidden screw on both sides in the fender well. This is somewhat difficult to access, the torx bit will be FACING towards the rear of the car, close to the 10 o'clock position in the fender well. Step 19: Remove the lower allen bolts in the bumper cover Step 20: carefully wiggle the bumper cover free. The parking assist sensors will still be plugged in, so don't completely remove. Once far enough out, locate and disconnect plug on the DRIVER side Step 21: Remove foam and sensors as one, and save for reinstall. Loosen 8 bolts holding on aluminum bumper and completely remove bumper. Step 22: Install new STEEL bumper with hitch. Torque bolts to 140 lb/ft Step 23: Reinstall parking sensors and foam on top Step 24: Install plug cover into harness Step 25: Remove plastic cover on bumper support, and use screws to attach harness and plug assembly. Step 26: Route harness along the bottom of the bumper support towards passenger side. Remove rubber grommet and replace with grommet already attached to the wire harness. The wire ties should be positioned perfectly to install in holes in the bumper support. Step 27: Grab harness on the interior side, and route up and over the factory cd changer to the existing plug you found early on. Plug into module. Step 28: Using screws, install module on top of existing electronics in passenger side area. There will only be 2 plugs even though there are three sockets on the module Step 29: On the bumper cover, there are marking where to cut the relief for the receiver as shown below. I made the cut with a sharp razor blade Step 30: Reinstall all components and panels in reverse order (have fun with all of this!) Step 31: Locate the right fuse box on the side of the passenger side dashboard. Install a 15A fuse in slot 1, 3, and 5 plus replace slot 19 with a 30A. FINAL STEP: IF YOU ARE LUCKY, the module ordered is already programmed for the US. Unfortunately, it seems like the dealerships are stocking the UK version. You will need someone with a porsche scan tool to reset the module to the US version (UK is the fold out version). If you don't have any errors on your dashboard, then you have the right US version. If you get a tow warning, you will need the module reset. ENJOY!!

On occasion during the most humid months of the year, the air coming out of the vents of my nearly 8-year-old car would smell a little 'off.' Since the a/c condensation was draining just fine and the odor wasn't ever-present, it wasn't a major concern to me. However, surfing the web I found a variety of A/C refresh kits that seemed worth a try, if for no reason other than to experiment and see if it was any benefit. But, no good deed goes unpunished. There are a variety of kits out there, some seem OE but most are aftermarket. I found them to have so much in common that I began to think they were made by only one or two manufacturers. The kits I was considering are two products: 1) a foaming spray that you inject into the evaporator housing through the condensation drain, and 2) a spray that you empty into the external air intake while changing the HVAC settings. The kits state or imply that they will clean the evaporator of crud that comes from dirt, mold, mildew, etc. and kill whatever causes odors in the venting. As I mentioned, the kits seemed nearly identical to each other so I bought one based on convenience at a local parts supplier for about $18. For another point of reference, there is a Toyota kit, part number 00289-ACRKT, that you can find here for instance. The product I used was the following: Note: This attempt to clean an HVAC system was for my particular 2003 986S. Other vehicles may be different and there are safety risks involved in doing mechanical or electrical work on a vehicle. What's presented here is a general overview of my DIY project, not a complete step-by-step set of instructions. Please obtain, understand, and follow the necessary repair and installation procedures in order to work safely, avoid damaging anything, and achieve a safe result. Preparation steps: I raised the vehicle up onto four(4) jack stands. Then I loosened or removed numerous underbody panels to expose the area under the passenger side floor pan. The location of the condensation drain is identified by an arrow in the photo below: First use the larger can of "evaporator foaming cleaner." You can read the instructions on the can in one of the photos above. I had to use another piece of tubing between the tapered nozzle and the condensation drain because the drain tube is not flexible and wouldn't hold the nozzle. That should have been the first indication to stop. Notice the grommet around the drain tube in the photo above and how the tube is inconveniently situated between the hot water supply/return for the heater core. As I was trying to force the tubing onto the drain, I pushed the drain tube and grommet into the passenger compartment. I knew it was going to be a pain to put it back, and it was. I had to remove the umbrella trim along the passenger-side door threshold, loosen the floor carpeting, and shove my arm under the carpet to reinstall it. Photos of the attachment and foam injection below: The foam went in, it seemed to sit for a while, it liquefied a bit, and then it drained out. The photo below was taken at a moment just as it was starting to drain: The liquid in the bucket was mostly clear, with a little particulate matter--nothing worth photographing. It didn't have much of a smell; it was slightly medicinal, like disinfectant. Following the instructions on the can, the next step is to use the "a/c intake refresher." Take out the pollen filter and spray into the air intake. You are supposed to change the vent settings between spraying intervals so that the mist runs through different duct work. Again, it has a slight disinfectant smell--pleasant but not flowery and not too strong. Not too bad, right?... Well, I was too preoccupied with the camera to realize what was happening inside the car: After all the effort for something that wasn't really necessary… I had to laugh. I was doing this process as I was preparing the car for winter storage. It was about 40° F (4° C) in my garage. Obviously, a lot of the foam didn't liquefy and drain. If I were to do this again, I would warm up the HVAC system beforehand, or just do the whole process at a higher ambient temperature. I'd also let the evaporator core drain longer (a lot longer) before doing the 2nd can. The photos above are the worst of it; only a little came out of the other vents. I blasted the system for a long time after that and it cleaned up without a problem--no damage to any surfaces. A few days ago I fired up the car for the season. No issues. Live and learn and pass it on. --Brian

Here is how you replace the spring in the center console on a 2006 997S. The cost of the part was 87 cents. Here is a picture of the part. You remove eight torx screws to get the cover off. This is the cover off. Here is the cover. There were two different length screws but it does not matter where they go. Next you release tension on the spring. I have a torx socket resting on the spring release. The last step is to pull the hinge pin out. I used a vice grip and it worked real nice. Replace the spring and reassemble. This is a very easy task with a difficulty index of 1. I replaced the spring because the console door would rattle over bumps. The new spring works like a champ. Paul

If your battery is dead and you need to get into the front trunk, it may be necessary to locate the manual pull wire to open the front trunk and get to the battery. This might be more difficult to locate the first time. You may not be in a good location to wrestle the right front tire splash guard to find it. It might be night time or you may not be dressed in the correct clothes to be down by the tires trying to locate it. I would recommend that you take the time to locate it in good weather and in the comfort of your garage or better yet re-route the wire to the front bumper behind the plastic plug the hides the location for the tow fish eye bolt. To get started I removed the carpet liner in the front trunk. The front trunk liner is made up of 2 sections and I only had to remove the front section. There was one thumbscrew clip on the passenger side and one thumbscrew clip opposite on the driver's side. Also on the driver's side there was one snapin clip and 2 additional snapin clips located in the front of the trunk. All five clips are very easy to find and remove. I then removed the plastic trim directly on top of the front trunk latch and microswitch. There are 4 screw plugs and you simply turn the plastic plugs 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn: I then removed the passenger side head lamp by using the tool in the Boxster tool kit. The kit is usually located near the spare tire in the front trunk. Turn the wrentch about 1/2 turn counter clockwise to unlock the headlamp. Slide the head lamp out. You may have to jiggle it a little but it should slide out with very little effort. Once the light is out you will be able to locate the pull wire. It is clamped into a lasso at the end. In the photo below you can see it at the end of the red arrow. The red oval in the top of the photo is the plastic wheel splash guard. The passenger front tire is directly behind that. Some recommend to access the pull wire from the tire side but that is a little more difficult and you still have the problem of trying to re-rout the wire up to the front bumber. Doing it from the head lamp side makes it easy. Here is another photo with my finger pointing at the pull wire. Remove the front bumper plastic cover that hides the tow plug. I used a plastic upholstery tool and the plastic cap popped right out. The plug has a fishline wire connected to it to prevent you from losing it. Use the light from a flashlight to guide you (from the front bumber side) and re-route the pull wire from the headlight to the tow plug. Having the top plastic guard off makes this very easy. Tuck the pull wire back in and re-insert the pastic bumber plug. Reassembly is just the reverse. Slide the headlamp back into the guides and push it home, use the wrentch and turn clock wise. you will hear a loud pop when the headlamp is secured. You know have easy access to the emergency pull wire.