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You should be fine.

Try 9524

Try 6814

Try 4359

Not back then - newer cars specify a bit more but the best thing is to do a factory build database check. I checked and your build code is 993330 which is a Carrera 2 wheel drive.

Try 6584

In case someone searches for vacuum line routing in the future

Thanks. Flipped a coin and replaced the seals in the other cylinder. That did it. The original seals came out shredded. New o-rings returned the top to smooth performance.

I confirmed by using, as well as a reputable Porsche indie, the Pentosin CHF 11S works well without issue. Also Pentosin CHF 202 works well if you cant find the 11S. A friend whose had his 911 cab much longer than I uses John Deere trans/hydraulic fluid and it works well.

Do you have photos of the stitching? I'm a bit afraid to go that route without seeing how it might look. With a good needle and (a lot of) patience, you can actually sew the stitches exactly into the original stitch holes and it will be completely undetectable. Regards, Maurice.

Hey great DYI. Can you tell me how you got the beauty ring to move? Mines in the 1 o'clock too. Thanks.

Helen: The fuse tray is labeled with numbers 1 to 10, running from left to right, but the numbers are tiny. (Click on the photo and you can see the numbers). Row A is the topmost row, and Row B is below it, down to row E at the bottom, with a row of spare fuses beneath row E. Here is a photo of the fuse tray location, Fuse A1 is at the top left, etc... Note that this photo of the fuse tray is of a U.S. car, so I don't think that you will have the "dead pedal" there on your car. Also, here is a photo of the the location of the double relay, located above the fuse panel and towards the front. Regards, Maurice.

Helen: The "temperamental" nature of the problem that you describe points to either bad/degraded connections at a number of possible points, or a hairline crack at the parallel strips microswitch inside of the convertible top latch assembly or a deformed plunger-type microswitch, also inside that latch assembly. You must first verify that the parking brake light on the dashboard is actually lit up when you pull up on the parking brake. Then double check that your fuses at B6 (supplies power to the convertible top double relay) and at D3 (supplies power to the convertible top motor) are intact AND that there is no corrosion at their respective spades on at the female receptacles on the fuse panel into which they are pressed. You can clean up any corrosion in those areas with a small piece of fine emery cloth. Next, double check for and clean up any corrosion on all of the male spades of the convertible top double relay, and the same for the female receptacles in the relay tray that accept the double relay spades. You can also tap the double relay on the ground a couple of times sharply, as that sometimes "revives" a sticking relay. If you have done all of the above and still get no reaction at all, you can then move to the convertible top latch assembly and its two microswitches. When you unlatch the top, the latch releases the plunger type microswitch inside the latch assembly and that causes it to ground. When it is grounded, a signal is sent to drop the windows about 4 inches. Poke your finger or a pencil eraser into that depression in the latch assembly and see if you get any reaction from the windows. If you don't, you will have to open up the latch assembly to access the two microswitches. Try the above steps first and report back. If there is no improvement, we can proceed with instructions on how to remove the latch assembly, etc... Regards, Maurice.

Thanks dmcole for the write up, great job. I would like to incorporate my photos to your words. I hope I don't butcher it. When putting things back together I did something a little different as my light switch did not have enough wire length. First things first: 1) Completely disconnect the battery. I can’t prove that total disconnection was necessary, but I also didn’t have the alarm go off suddenly. Better safe than deaf or shot by the neighbors. 2) Remove the rubber gasket around the ignition key. I could pull mine off just using my fingers. 3) Remove the left hand vent. There’s a nice writeup on this already; so I won’t repeat all of that here. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...ost&id=6617 Here are the basic steps from the link: Insert narrow screwdriver into hole under the switch. Turn blade up, not flat. Here is what it looks like from the backside. Remove 3 screws from the above areas. Give a gentle pull from the top. mine was a little stuck. Disconnect plug connection, I had to pry with a screwdriver as my wires were not long enough to let my hands get behind the vent. keep this in mind as we get to the end of this DYI. 4) Once the vent is removed, remove the screw straight in the back back that holds the vent tube in place. 5) Now reach or crawl under the dash and remove the center horizontal vent tube under the steering column and the vertical one you just freed up in the step above. 6) Put on a long sleeve shirt. After working through the vent hole for a couple of hours, my forearm is pretty beat up today. I’ll save you the same realization… You’re now ready to start working on the issue at hand. 1) Reach to the back and disconnect the wiring harness from the ignition switch. It just goes straight off the back; no special clips there and don’t twist it. Looking through the vent hole A little closer look. 2) Remove the immobilizer. It’s the black box on top of the steering lock housing. Unclip the little wiring harness on the front right. This one has a little catch on it so don’t just pull it out. There is a little plastic Phillips head near the key that you give a quarter-turn. Mine had ‘wings’ on the Phillips head that I could turn by hand. Once you’ve turned this, slide the immobilizer straight toward you along the top of the steering lock housing. That will free it up to remove. Here is what it looks like removed. 3) Remove the key cylinder. Around the key hole is a silver beauty ring. Around the edge of that ring is a small hole. Make sure the hole is near the 7 o’clock position instead of near 1 o’clock. Mine had turned 180 degrees at some point and made this cylinder removal impossible until I figured that out. Insert your valet key (it’s just easier, but your regular remote key will work) and turn to position 1. Now stick a straightened paper clip (I used one of the larger, sturdier clips instead of a standard one) in as far as it will go. The cylinder should virtually fall out if you’ve done this right. If you’re having to tug on the key to pull it, try again. Carefully disconnect the electrical clip from the key cylinder. Leave both the key and clip in the cylinder and set the thing aside. My switch was in the 1 o'clock position when I started but went back in at 7 o'clock position.??? 4) Disconnect the steering lock housing mounting screw near the key. This requires the same Torx bit you used to remove the side vent cover. I didn’t have a stubby Tork driver; so I clamped the bit into a pair of needle-nose Vise-Grips to get it loose. Once loosened, I could unscrew it by hand. Once the screw is out, swing the vertical mounting strut up and out of the way. 5) Disconnect the mounting bolt next to the steering column. A small 10mm ratchet worked for me. I didn’t have to put a wrench on the nut, but I had to use a bit of hand work to finally get the nut off and the bolt out. 6) Remove the steering lock housing. The trick here is that there is a spring-button that locks the housing into the steering column. You can see what you’re up against by looking at your replacement part. You depress the spring through a small hole on the steering column. I used a 2mm allen wrench to depress the button so that I could wiggle the housing out. Now you need to prep the new part. 1) Remove all of the clips from the old housing and attach them to the new one. There is a metal clip that secures the mounting screw near the key hole and two plastic wiring guide clips. I removed the plastic clips by punching out the center pins from the bottom (they are small and actually come completely out; don’t lose them) and then carefully squeezing the prongs until the clip came off. Attach them to the new part. 2) Put a little lubricant (just a light surface wiping, nothing more) on the housing surfaces that insert into the steering column. Install the new steering lock housing: 1) If the shiny silver steering lock ‘spear’ is extended from the housing, use a large flat blade screwdriver in the center of where the key cylinder would go and simulate turning the car on. This will retract the spear. 2) Insert the end of the housing into the steering column. This was the hardest part for me. I don’t know if the new part was just thousandths of an inch bigger or what, but it was 20 minutes of wiggling and jiggling that thing to get it in. Don’t forget that you will have to depress the little spring pin once it gets to the flange. I wasn’t sure I heard the spring pin pop into place in that hole; so I crawled under the dash to inspect it to be sure I seated the thing completely. 3) Replace the mounting screw near the key hole. By the way, I never replaced the 10mm bolt at the steering column. I couldn’t figure out how to restart the nut on the bolt, plus with that spring pin engaged, I can’t see how the housing could ever come out under normal use. 4) Reconnect the wiring harness to the ignition switch in the back. 5) Reconnect the immobilizer and its wiring clip. 6) Push the key cylinder in firmly (aligning it in the little guide on the top left of the steering lock housing) and pull the paper clip. It should be secured. Remove the key. Reconnect the tiny wiring clip to the key cylinder. 7) Reconnect the battery. 8) Start the car at this point to ensure that you’ve done everything right. If the car won’t start, something didn’t get reconnected properly or you have a different issue. Note: it is not necessary to have the headlight switch reassembled to start the car. If the car starts at this point, start replacing the rest of the stuff you pulled out. Start with the vent tubing. It was helpful to loosely attach the vertical tube with its screw before reconnecting the horizontal tube underneath. Once done underneath, tighten the vertical tube and replace everything else. Be very careful with the headlight switch reattachment as that lighted ring looks pretty fragile and the little bulbs have to fit exactly right into the plastic ring that covers it. Start ‘er up and hope that the new part is a thousand times more reliable than the one you replaced. Additions: Below are a couple of steps that I went through to put back the vent and light switch back together. I removed the switch from the vent and attached it back onto the plug. Insert the switch through the vent assy and twist to lock into postion. make sure that you connect the remaining ring plug and replace vent and screws. reattach the ring and put the nut and knob back on. now go get some Band-Aids to cover your banged up knuckels. :lol: BTW the part cost me $135 but if you plan in advance you can get much cheaper at Sunset Imports. I am not sure what I would have saved in labor. It was a fun project that took me a bit longer due to photos and dinner. (4 hrs) Enjoy, Halo

td: Bank 1 refers to the side of the engine with cylinders 1, 2, and 3 on a 6 cylinder car. On a 996, that side is the driver's side. (Boxster engines are turned around 180 degrees, so bank 1 on those is on the passenger's side). Regards, Maurice.