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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/24/2024 in all areas

  1. 1 point
  2. DO NOT START A NEW TOPIC FOR A LOST RADIO CODE. DO NOT EMAIL ADMINS. Please read the Lost Radio Code FAQ FIRST before posting - then post in the one thread.
    1 point
  3. I had my car alarm randomly going off. Replaced and/or tested ever micro-switch. I finally replaced the ignition switch and have never had the issue again. Weird things can happen with that ignition switch - cheap part and not too terrible to replace.
    1 point
  4. Well since the regulator is one of two remaining items left I can replace I might as well go ahead and try it. By the time I'm done my door should be trouble free for the next 20 years! (Year, right.) Thanks you for the advice. I have checked the regulator in the usual area that shows slack (at the bottom of the door) and there doesn't appear to be any play. I may just replace the regulator and the motor since they are the last two replaceable items left other than the harness.
    1 point
  5. It's is used at the assembly line/factory, not used by PIWIS or anything, has a data line from the DME only though that can carry the same info from DME, but no other data lines included in it like the PIWIS/OBDII connector.
    1 point
  6. What does it mean when dash warning shows, "Rear Hatch Open" every time I move forward from dead stop?
    1 point
  7. One of the problems that I see with many 996/986/997/987 owners complaining about is a lumpy or erratic idle and sometimes sluggish acceleration. I have a quick cure for this problem. In fact, this cure will work for any car that has a throttle body. The issue is that over time a sludgy gunk will build up in the throttle body where the throttle butterfly opens and closes. This gunk will eventually change the airflow characteristics of the gap between the butterfly and the throttlebody which will cause the erratic idle. In addition, this gunk can cause the butterfly the stick as it opens which will effect acceleration. The car's DME will compensate for this buildup over time, but if it gets too thick, then the "Throttle Adaption" will reach its limit, and will throw a code. Many times people think that it is the MAF that is bad, when it is just a dirty throttle body. Notice that the butterfly valve is slightly cracked open. This is for the idle airflow, and that crack can get clogged because of the gunk buildup. The solution is to remove the air cleaner box for access to the throttle body, and simply clean the throttle body with spray carburetor cleaner. Open the butterfly valve with your hand, and wipe out all of the gunk on the backside of the valve, and the inside of the throttle body. You will see a dark brown ring inside the throttle body. This is the buildup you want to remove. Take a rag, wet it with carburetor cleaner, and wipe out the gunk. Be sure to get the edge and the back side of the butterfly valve as well. You will know when you are done because the surfaces that you are cleaning are polished, and easy to see if there is stuff left on them. Here is a picture of what your throttle body should look like after it is cleaned. Notice how shinny the inside is. Don't worry if you spray too much in the engine, when you fire the engine up, all of that stuff will burn off in the combustion chamber. Where does the gunk come from? It is residue from the crankcase vent opening that is right there behind the butterfly. The reason it is there is because there is high vacuum there that will suck the crankcase oil vapors back into the combustion process of the car. Over time oil solids will accumulate there and will form a sticky lip around the opening. This cleaning should be part of your 30,000 mile maintenance as a minimum. However if you have never had your throttle body cleaned, try doing this weekend. You will be amazed at how much better your car runs.
    1 point
  8. With all due respect you are mistaken. We use the same model numbering/labeling that Porsche uses in ALL their documentation. (click to enlarge)
    1 point
  9. So, I'm going to update this thread as I go along in case anyone else needs this info going forward. Although there are a lot of "radio" threads out there it appears that the vast majority of Cayenne buyers got the Bose sound package and thus I could not find conclusive information so here goes: My '05 Cayenne base does not have the bose sound upgrade package and does not have an amp, just a fiber optic connected CD changer. (translation: the MOST system in my Cayenne is only utilized for the CD changer) Basics: if the speakers don't have the Bose logo you probably don't have bose. The CD changer is located in the rear right cargo behind pull off panel. My understanding is a non-bose amp would be located above the CD changer, that space can be viewed with a flashlight at the correct angle. Original radio is the CDR-23 single din. The back of the radio has three plugs (the top with three wires is the steering controls, the middle with 8 wires are the speakers, the bottom with three wires is the power/antenna). In addition there is the antenna connection on the far left and a pair of FIBER OPTIC cables. In this setup, the Fiber Optics cables run directly to the CD changer and that appears to be it. I unplugged the fiber optic behind the radio and EVERYTHING works fine (radio, steering controls, dash still shows the station/song). The CD changer obviously does not work but the CD slot on the head unit does work. With 8 speaker wires in the back of the radio, it is evident these are running straight to the speakers, confirmed by the fact that no amp was found. Also, called Becker and they confirmed that some becker units are not programmed to be used with an amp and most cars with an amp use a smaller yellow plug in the middle slot instead of the 8 speaker wires. So for the Radio swap all I need is a new head unit and wiring harness, essentially it is now plug and play (thank you previous owner for only getting the basic radio option). After some back and forth with a few car stereo and online sellers, the correct harness appears to be the Connects2 model CTSPO001 and is about a US$100 part. This does include steering wheel controls which would negate the need to buy the US$50 ASWC-1 part. (so essentially 50 for the basic harness and 50 for the steering controls) The fiber optic plug will just be taped off behind the unit since I have no need for the CD changer (definitely not spending 500 for a fiber connection to tie it in), they also sell a fiber optic loop connection for 10-25 so I might do that just in case its better to have the fiber loop closed. Other parts that are easily identified elsewhere: dash trim by Metra 95-9600, another one by Connects2 CT23PO01. Antenna is 40-EU10 but it appears there are a couple almost identical to choose but know once hooked up. Since the speaker wires are behind the head unit it would be easy to setup an amp in the front of the vehicle or possibly under the hood since any wires (power/speakers) wouldn't have to be routed all the way to the back of the vehicle. Parts are all on order, will update when everything is connected.
    1 point
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