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Welcome to RennTech The beauty of the Porsche sports exhaust system is that if you leave the vacuum connections disconnected, it is in the loud position at all times, giving you max flow. I would simply remove the wire the previous owner installed which decreases both sound and performance and enjoy the ride.............and the sound.

Try 7697

Looks good. No range 5s and 6s. You don't need to be worried about range 1-3s and it only has 24 ignitions in range 4. Looks good from a DME over rev perspective, I have seen way worse.

Wiring diagrams have only been available in Porsches' PIWIS tester sine 2006.

Try 9381

Try 2796

Jake has probably forgotten more than most of the rest of us combined know about these engines, so he is a trusted source. You would be wise doing both sides, the IMS, the RMS, new plug tubes, etc. all at the same time; you really don't want to go back in there six months down the road.............😉

It is the plunger assembly in the actuator, and it is a very common problem:

Try 4561

Sorry if this has been posted before but I have not found a post on this specific issue. I recently had one of my top tension cables break again. These are the single cables on each side of the top that hold tension on it when it's closed and give it a good shape when the top is closed. Not wanting to spend $60 to replace a single broken cable I decided to attempt a repair. So far the results are looking good. The total length of the cable, not including the ends, is 9 inches. There is 8 inches of exposed cable and 1/2 inch inside each ball connector. The cable thickness is approximately 1/8 inch. Rather than spend extra money for stainless cable, I purchased regular galvanized cable. We shall see how it works out. Tools & Supplies needed: -Dremel with cut-off wheel or similar tool -Grinding wheel or Scotchbrite wheel -Drill Press or power drill and steady hands! - 1/8" cable either Stainless or Galvanized - 9/64 drill bit -3/32 drill bit -Propane Torch -Electronics Solder and Flux. I used solder that was a little less than 3/32" thick. -Container with water for cooling the connections. 1. Remove the broken cable and the broken end. Save the plastic tube that the old cable slide through. Grind down the bits of cable that are sticking out of the broken end. 2. Placed the broken end in a Drill Press vice or bench Vice if using a hand power drill. As carefully as possible, drill out the broken cable with the 9/64" bit trying to stay as close to the center as possible. Drill down 1/2". Make sure there are no bit of broken cable left in the hole. 3. Turn the connector on it's side and drill a 3/32" hole perpendicular to the cable opening and just above the bottom of the cable opening. I drilled all the way through but it can probably go just into the cable opening you just drilled out. 4. Cut a 9" long piece of replacement cable. 5. Flux one end of the replacement cable and twist into the open end of the connector making sure to follow the existing twist of the cable. Twist the cable in until it hits the bottom of the connector. 6. With you propane torch lit, hold the cable with the connector end in the flame until the flux starts to bubble. Take your solder and stick it into the 3/32" hole you drilled. Once it starts to melt and fill in the cable, remove the connector from the flame. The solder will continue to melt for a little bit. When you see solder come out of the end of the connector around the cable you can stop adding solder if you wish. 7. Dunk the soldered end in the water to cool it and check your handy work. Grind off and rough spots or excess solder. 8. Take the other part of the broken cable with the connection that is not broken off and using your Dremel or cutting wheel, cut off the remaining original cable as close to the end of the connector and the repeat from Step #2. (Remember to place the plastic tube over the new cable before you solder the second end in place!) 9. Make sure both connectors are facing the same way before you solder the second connector in place. As you can see the plastic tube does not melt if you are careful. The total cost for the cable, (30 feet), and the drill bits was $10. The cable is very secure and we'll see how long it lasts since there is not a lot of pull on these cables.

Flange center bolt's nut is 13mm. (I suspect it has been touched because the other three bolts on the flange are "indented" 6 point torx, not traditional hex bolts like some of the other bolts on my images.) Once again, much appreciated, excellent answer JFP, :notworthy: OK, with a 13MM center bolt nut you still have a removable IMS bearing (the non serviceable unit is the only one using a 22MM nut). The flange bolts are the correct single use microencapsulated units, you should have new ones with the IMS kit.

Both the RMS and IMS appear to show different levels of leakage; the RMS is seeping, the IMS flange is flat out leaking. I would definitely install a new PTFE style seal; at around $20, it is a no brainer. The IMS flange is leaking the worst. Probably none of them unless they show signs of a problem. The reason Porsche came out with replacement bolts had to do with the RMS bore concentricity or roundness. Back when they were replacing entire engines due to leaks that could not be stopped, Porsche came out with slightly longer microencapsulated bolts to replace the four in the bell housing area to try and hold the RMS seal bore in a more stable position during engine operation. These were typically applied to the early M96 engine's that had shorter bolts from the factory. Unfortunately, while they may have stopped the leaks in some cases, Porsche eventually figured out that the real issues were out of round RMS seal bores, and variances in the concentricity of the flywheel flange on the crank. To help the dealers decide which engine's could be saved by retrofitting rather than replacement, Porsche released special tool 9699/1, which became known as the "Go, No Go gauge". When inserted over the crank flange and into the RMS opening of the cases, if this tool touched the RMS bore edge or showed the case bore and/or crank flange was off visually center, no retrofit of bolts or a new seal was going to save the day and the engine had to be replaced. So it is more than just the bolts, but as Porsche also began using the longer bolts in regular production engines, most of the later engine's already carry them, and replacing them with new versions of the same bolt really does not accomplish anything. The IMS flange would get new bolts, however. Your current RMS (part number 997.101.212.00) is the PTFE unit, which was introduced in 2005, so yours must have been changed at least once. The IMS "part number" you have noted is for the rear flange only, not the IMS itself. But I would ask one question concerning the IMS in the engine: What size socket fits on the center bolt nut in the flange?

Poleposition detailed it perfectly. If you want to make the removal more permanent, this may help: > To disconnect the TPMS 1: First you must actually disconnect the TPMS control unit so that the CAN Controller does not continue to recognize it. The control unit is located in the front trunk next to brake fluid reservoir. Remove and unplug the dome light on the cowling plastic. Remove all of the screws that hold this entire plastic panel in. There are a good number on top by the seal and one on each side by the bottom. 2: Now unplug the control unit it is part number 997 618 103 06, Do not remove it. This way you can always just plug it back it and use it again. 3. Reassemble the front trunk again. 4. Hook up the PIWIS tester to the car via the OBD2 port and do a complete check of all the control units. 5. Select "Gateway" and then "Coding" then ""Required Control Units List". This will list all installed CAN units. 6. Now select "Tire Pressure Monitoring System" and change to " Not Installed" and code it, then exit to the main screen again. The next steps will code your instrument cluster and to do so will require that you have your engine number, so have it handy, you will find out why. 7. Select "Instrument Cluster" and then "Coding" then "Vehicle Variants". 8. Now select your "Model Year" then "Model", "Roof Version", "Country" (02 is for USA, Puerto Rico). The next item will be "Versions" (553 is USA/Canada). 9. Select your "Individual and exclusive equipment" by highlighting each item that would apply such as: 454-Cruise, 023-Silver Colored Gauge faces etc. DO NOT select 423/483 TPM!!!! This is the TPMS for the cluster and must not be highlighted. 10. Move to the next screen and finish the "Audio and Communication " by highlighting what applies to your car. 11. Next will be the "Wheel Size" and finally it will ask about your engine number. 12. Proceed forward and then Code with F8. That’s it and now TPMS is removed. Source: http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/gt3-gt2...ostic-tool.html

I can turn it off, using the menu from the dashboard. I go to "main menu", then you find the sub menu for Tyre Monitoring. There you will find the option to turn off the Monitoring. After this, you will get every time you start the car "Monitoring OFF" message.

Heads-up for cab owners with rear seat speakers... the rear cab drains and the catch trays are right behind the speakers (on my '99 at least). Simply remove the two torx screws, pull the speaker assembly and there it is. You can easily hit both the entry and exit drains from there as depicted in the service drawings above.

Hey Loren, I did follow the procedure to get the info... did it again to double check for good measure: Becker 1 Type 4462 Ser# W5002680 31/98 The model is a cdr220... The wait screen is still on. Does the radio have to be on for 1 hour for it to go off?