How to remove stripped drain plug?

[LVDell]

:censored: Well, I went to change the oil and the drain plug is STRIPPED!!! I have a new plug that I am going to replace it with but I need to find a way to remove the stripped one. Obviously the previous owner didn't take any care in using proper torque reccomendations, etc. If I can just get it off I have a shiny new oil drain plug waiting to be used.

Any ideas???

[Tool Pants]

Does your 8 mm allen tool just turn inside the recess of the plug?

[LVDell]

Yup. However, it is not because it is too small, it is stripped (no sides for the allen to grasp).

[Tool Pants]

Then you hammer in the next biggest torx bit that almost fits. Not a larger size allen bit as it is soft aluminum.

The kind of bit you can turn with a long wrench for leverage. Use a breaker bar.

I think have a Peter picture but I cannot find it.

[LVDell]

Well, off to Lowe's to buy a new torx bit. Only problem is that I think the next size up is 10mm not 9mm. Very strange. Guess I will buy the 10.

ARRGGHH!!!! I really wanted to get this done so I could finish shooting the oil change video I promised another member. (obviously the stipped drain plug will be edited out :D )

[joee]

While you are at the hardware you might look for a tool called an easy out. It's like a drill bit except it threads in backwards so as you are tightening it into the opening it is applying torque to remove the busted screw or plug in this case. When removing a busted bolt you first drill a hole for the easy out to go into. If you can find the right size easy out it might be easier than hammering a bit in.

Joe

[Tool Pants]

A number X allen bit has no relationship to a same number X torx bit. The number might be the same. Nothing else.

The problem with drilling a hole for a very large easy out is. If the plug does not come out then you have an engine with no oil. If you have removed the oil with a drilled hole at the plug then you have no place to go.

[LVDell]

Thanks Joe.....(and Jeff).

I just got back from Sears and bought a 9mm (alan key--not hex bit in 9) and 10mm hex bit as well as a "screw extractor" that looks like the winner. I will start with the screw extractor and go from there.

[ar38070]

If that does not work then get out your dremel tool and cut a slot across the hole and use a big screwdriver. Whenever I have rounded out phillips screws that is what I do.

[LVDell]

Not sure what you mean by that but you can be sure I will come calling if my previous plan does not work :cheers:

[Tool Pants]

Now that I think about it, Peter used a triple square bit to get out a drain bolt, not a torx bit. He showed me the plug with the bit still stuck in, because I asked him how he gets out an aluminum plug when the recess is rounded. It was not a plug from a Boxster/996 but some other Porsche aluminum plug. I even asked him about welding a nut onto the plug, but the problem is is the oil drain plug is aluminum.

As long as you can get some tool into the recess that will not spin under torque.

[umn]

What a pain. That's what always happens, isn't it? You think you're doing a nice 30min DIY job, and the something like this happens ...

Easiest way to solve the problem is to swallow your pride and just drop by at a friendly (!) Porsche dealer, possibly an independent. As they are dealing with this kind of stuff all the time, they seem to have a knack of getting these things out in no time at all.

I wouldn't touch one of these DIY "easy out" with a ten foot pole, because they are very brittle and like to break, and if one breaks in the plug, you really have a problem.

I'd go with TP's recommendation: Best thing is to sharpen a triple square (sharper edges than a torx) and hammer it in. Make sure the engine is warm before you do it. Because of the different thermal expansion coefficients, the alumin(i)um engine will expand more than the steel plug and the plug will be easier to get out.

Best of luck,

Uwe

[LVDell]

Pride is being able to fix the situation yourself. It's not like I am performing rocket science here with a plug that is stripped.

The easy out worked great. I hammered that S.O.B. in nice and tight and attached an adjustsable wrench and used a breaker bar....VOILA! Oil change complete.

Video to follow..............

[umn]

...

The easy out worked great.  I hammered that S.O.B. in nice and tight and attached an adjustsable wrench and used a breaker bar....VOILA!  Oil change complete.

...

I'm glad you got it sorted out. :cheers:

[Tool Pants]

Put up a picture of the plug with the tool stuck in it for the next guy.

[LVDell]

One step ahead of you TP. Just need to download of the camera.

Thanks for all the input from everyone!!!

I will post the picture of the strtipped plug as well as (hopefully) be done editing the oil change DIY video this afternoon so that is avail as well.

Cheers,

Dell

[LVDell]

Here is a picture of the screw extractor hammered into the drain plug that was stripped.

[trunkmonkey]

I had the same problem, I was able to get the bolt out using a black & decker screw extractor set, I had to cut the tip off the #5 bit in order to get it to grab. the bit was too long otherwise... It worked flawlessly and required no drilling or hammering...

These photos are of my oil drain plug from my Boxster 987, I replaced the drain plug with a drain plug from Pelican Parts, it was listed as a drain plug for 986 but it worked fine.

Edited February 16, 2009 by trunkmonkey

[aron in toronto]

Wow, this is one from the past.

Use some caution when dealing with a stripped drain plug as they are made of some pretty soft metal.

I was just finishing up an oil change and when I attempted to torque the bolt its head split. This happened before I was near the torque specs.

With half the bolt head broken off it makes getting the remainder off a little tricky. :)

Edited February 18, 2009 by aron in toronto

[Loren]

Based on RFM's excellent recommendation we are suggesting that folks that do their own oil changes upgrade their oil drain plug to a stainless steel version of the drain plug.

The original version is aluminum and strips very easily so this stainless steel version should eliminate that from happening.

900.219.015.00 SS Drain Plug -- US MSRP $21.40 -- Sunset Imports price $12.80.

[perryinva]

Jake Raby sells a hard anodized one with a 10mm allen and a magnet to grab ferrous metal. Nice alternative, about the same price.

[daisound]

The thread in Oil change told us to use 37 ft-lb to tighten the drian plug. I think the key is to loosen the plug and the oil filter housing may be by 45 degree before we warm up the engine as Loren did. That may help to loose the plug and the filter housing. If we follow the torque and use a T50 torx that may make a difference and do not need to replace the Aluminum plug to steel. The aluminum plug has the advantage of protecting the engine pan thread. If we put excessive torque on the Plug, it will not strip our engine casting pan.

[RFM]

I'm sure if you use a T50 instead of an allen key, to loosen or tighten the drain plug , you will destroy the drain plug for sure.

[smak]

Thanks for the write-up. I had fixed mine on the weekend with a cut down #5 screw extractor.

[ldrhoades]

I know this is an old thread, but this finally happened to me. For others that might see this, to keep the extractor in place (after beating it with a sledge {not recommended}), i used a floor jack and a block of wood to apply pressure and keep it in place as I turned it with my cresent wrench. What a nightmare! Had I resorted to the jack earlier in the process, it might have saved the engine some abuse... Good luck.

Here is a picture of the screw extractor hammered into the drain plug that was stripped.