top and frame removal from 986

[pace]

Message for Juniinc

Maurice on Long Island told me that you have instructions on how to remove the entire top and mechanism for window replacement. Can you post it so that I can do this to my car. I could not find them in the archives

Joe Pace

[1schoir]

Message for Juniinc

Maurice on Long Island told me that you have instructions on how to remove the entire top and mechanism for window replacement. Can you post it so that I can do this to my car. I could not find them in the archives

Joe Pace

Joe:

Juniinc wrote up his sewing in of the convertible top window (with the top still on) here:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ic=16350&hl

As for removing the entire convertible top with frame assembly in one piece, here is a procedure I had written up some time ago:

(Note that this is for a MY 97 to 99 986, the later Boxsters don't have the exact same location for the B-Pillar Microswitch as that switch was moved to the driver's side transmission [even though the factory manual says it was moved to the passenger's side transmission]).

1. Put the top in the service mode (if you are not sure how to do this, it's in the owner's manual), and make sure the clamshell is at it highest position (45 degree angle, as far back as possible). Unlatch the black/gray vinyl apron from its two plastic retainers on the rear firewall and pop off the two tension cables from their steel balls at the base of the cables. Now, reaching under the B-pillar round black knuckle at its base, pull off the white plastic cups (maybe red plastic if yours have never been replaced) from the steel balls that they are pressed on to. If you have too much trouble popping those off, you can undo the 10mm bolt (with thick washer) from the middle of the connecting arm that leads to the white plastic cups on one end and the front of the V-lever on the rearmost end of it. Before you undo that bolt, mark the point where the two halves of the connect arm are joined so that you don't have to guess at the correct length later. I have attached a photo, where the white arrow shows the 10mm bolt with thick washer. The yellow arrow shows where you should mark the position of the two halves of the connecting arm. The red circles show two of the three large bolts that must be removed (see step #3 below)

2. Now, from the inside of the passenger compartment (behind the outboard side of the driver's seat), remove the semi-circular carpet-covered plastic trim panel from around the base of the roll bar. This trim panel is attached with an 8mm bolt at the top (just loosen it, you don't have to remove it completely) and there is a phillips screw near the bottom that is well hidden in the carpet covering. The screw is about 6 or 8 inches from the floor and just forward of the firewall. Remove the panel. This will remove the defroster hook up, and you will see the B-pillar microswitch, which must be disconnected from its connector near the floor. There is also a zip-tie that will have to be cut, as the zip-tie holds the wire to the roll-bar.

3. Unbolt the 3 large bolts that are visible on the backside of top frame, looking under the rear of the B-Pillar while the top is in the service mode. Some Boxsters have a plastic box covering these three bolts, and this plastic box comes off with removal of two Phillips screws. The large bolts are self-centering, so it will not be difficult to re-install them in the correct position. The top, with the mechanism attached is still very light, but it is a little bulky, so you might want to have someone help you lift it off.

4. You may find two Phillips screws just ahead of the rearmost large bolt (the first one is visible in the photo indicated by the blue arrow) on each side. Unscrew those Phillips screws and set them aside for later reassembly. You may also have to gently separate the foam liner from the metal bracket that has been pressed on for many years. Proceed carefully to insure that you do not rip, cut, or tear the foam liner.

5. Once the 3 bolts on each side (left and right) have been removed (and the four Phillips screws, two on each side), just slide the top back about one inch and then lift it straight up. If you are not the original owner, note that someone else may have removed the Phillips screws and not replaced them.

That's all there is to it.

Regards, Mauricel.

[spyder803]

1. Put the top in the service mode (if you are not sure how to do this, it's in the owner's manual), and make sure the clamshell is at it highest position (45 degree angle, as far back as possible). Unlatch the black/gray vinyl apron from its two plastic retainers on the rear firewall and pop off the two tension cables from their steel balls at the base of the cables. Now, reaching under the B-pillar round black knuckle at its base, pull off the white plastic cups (maybe red plastic if yours have never been replaced) from the steel balls that they are pressed on to. If you have too much trouble popping those off, you can undo the 10mm bolt (with thick washer) from the middle of the connecting arm that leads to the white plastic cups on one end and the front of the V-lever on the rearmost end of it. Before you undo that bolt, mark the point where the two halves of the connect arm are joined so that you don't have to guess at the correct length later. I have attached a photo, where the white arrow shows the 10mm bolt with thick washer. The yellow arrow shows where you should mark the position of the two halves of the connecting arm. The red circles show two of the three large bolts that must be removed (see step #3 below)

Regards, Mauricel.

Does anyone have a picture of the white or red caps mentioned above or can describe where they are suppose to be located? My drip pan is torn and leaking and in the hole I found a white plastic cap but cannot determine where it belongs. Are these caps necessary? As I do not yet see one on the passenger side either.

[spyder803]

I apologize for the crappy pictures but hopefully someone can tell what this is and explain to me where it goes:

Again, I found this in a hole in my driver's side drip pan and am concerned with how it got there and if it is needed. I'm trying to repair the drip pan now.

[RFM]

The white part in your pic is the (broken) ball joint which is mounted on top of the left rod (with the yellow arrow) and connected to the top mechanism in the B-pillar area when closed.

[spyder803]

The white part in your pic is the (broken) ball joint which is mounted on top of the left rod (with the yellow arrow) and connected to the top mechanism in the B-pillar area when closed.

I have verified that both ball joints are in place on top of the driver's and passenger side rods. Perhaps one broke on the previous owner. Thanks

[1schoir]

I have verified that both ball joints are in place on top of the driver's and passenger side rods. Perhaps one broke on the previous owner. Thanks

Spyder:

Just want to make sure that you are aware of the potential problem with flooding the central alarm unit if you don't insure that your drains are draining properly, in addition to making sure that you repair any tears or rips in the foam drain pan as you are in the process of doing.

To make sure that you don't have some other debris clogging up your drains, pour 1 quart of water each one of the drains after you put a catch pan on the ground just to the inside and slightly forward of each rear wheel. If you collect a full quart, your drains are okay. If not, there is a thread here that covers the procedure.

Regards, Maurice.

[spyder803]

I have verified that both ball joints are in place on top of the driver's and passenger side rods. Perhaps one broke on the previous owner. Thanks

Spyder:

Just want to make sure that you are aware of the potential problem with flooding the central alarm unit if you don't insure that your drains are draining properly, in addition to making sure that you repair any tears or rips in the foam drain pan as you are in the process of doing.

To make sure that you don't have some other debris clogging up your drains, pour 1 quart of water each one of the drains after you put a catch pan on the ground just to the inside and slightly forward of each rear wheel. If you collect a full quart, your drains are okay. If not, there is a thread here that covers the procedure.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice. I did quite a bit of reading here before buying my Boxster so at the first sign of moisture I pulled my seat and inserted the immobilizer unit into a zip loc bag and used my compressor to blow out the drains.

It rained some last night, not as hard as the night before, but there is no water in the car this morning. If it warms up some today I plan on cleaning and treating my top and expect that that process will verify if my leak has been fixed.

Thanks