Replaced Starter and Oil Filler Tube

[dr7966]

Since I had to send back the new head unit and the car would be down for awhile decided to install the new starter and oil filler tube that were sitting on the bench.

Old starter was turning over slowly or would stop when hot and oil filler tube was broken. Getting a CEL for evap emissions and hope the tube fixes the problem.

Didnt take any pics but I can describe how it went.

Disconnected battery and removed K&N intake, throttle body(4 - 10mm screws, two connectors, one nut, and 1 hose)

Actually layed intake on the right side without disconnecting the MAF and layed the throttle body on the left without disconnecting the smaller hose. (Dont like to disconnect things unless I have to)

Removed intake manifold (4 hose clamps and wiggle it out)

Starter is in the back (the 12v battery wire nut was seized on the stud and broke off the stud and plastic on removal)

The threads on the nut were defective.

Removed the 2 - 13mm starter bolts. The bottom one requires a swivel and long extension

Removed starter and I think I bumped a small water hose that goes over the oil filler tube whare it connects with another hose and broke it off. Didnt notice it right away but later saw fluid on the ground and you can imagine what I said.

I was able to get the broken part out of the hose and connect it back to the small part of the fitting that was left.

Need to get a new fitting from the dealer

While the starter was out removed the oil filler tube. This didnt go well. There are several hoses, pipes, and wires in the area where the oil tube is bolted to the engine with 2-10mm bolts. I had alot of trouble getting the rear bolt out. There is something behind the alternator obstructing the ability to put a socket on. Ended up using an end wrench.

Dropped tools and bolts are very hard to recover in this area. Probably should put some rags down in there to catch anything that falls "before" you start.

Starter replacement went pretty well. I was able to chase the threads on the defective nut and reuse it.

New oil tube replacement - lost one of the original bolts on the right side near the AC compressor and the other on the Left side. There is very little room to get hands in there. Could not get a bolt back in the rear oil tube location.

Went ahead and put it back together enough to start it (new starter is much better)

Need to go to Harbor Freight and get a big magnet to fish out those lost bolts.

Hard to believe that the Porsche Engineers made the oil tube so difficult to change considering it is made of plastic and breaks easily. They could have moved the location of the rear bolt over slightly to be able to put a socket on.

[JeTexas]

I think you and I have the same work process.

I don't know that I ever finish a job without something else being broken.

But I LEARN. That probably counts for something.

[dr7966]

I was worried about the broken water hose connection and the lost bolt on the alternator side.(was able to reconnect it to the broken fitting but knew it wouldnt stay long) Went to the Woodland Hills Porsche dealer and picked up a new fitting for $4.97. For those in the SFV they just started opening Saturdays from 10-3. This hose is in between the alternator and power steering pump and the plastic fitting is bolted to the block. If you are working in this area I suggest replacing it because it gets brittle and its only a 5 dollar part.

Removed the alternator and the lost bolt was right behind it. With the alternator removed it was easy to install it into the rear oil filler tube bolt hole. Looking again at the oil filler tube replacement instructions it says to remove the alternator.

Struggled with the alternator but now I think I understand the directions. They say to remove the left bolt and unscrew the right bolt 3 turns and hit with a hammer. They want you to hit the top of the bolt to help push apart the alternator tangs from where they mount on the holding fixture. Then you rotate clockwise and it comes out. If the tangs are tight it is very difficult to rotate the alternator.

The more work I do on the car I get less intimidated and appreciate the design and how things are layed out. With the air filter assembly removed the alternator, water pump, power steering pump, ac compressor, throttle body, are all easy to see and reach. Even the starter is pretty easy with the throttle body removed.

The designers seemed to use the same size bolts for most things. 10mm for all the throttle body bolts, 13mm for the starter and alternator. This may have come from racing so that the mechanics can change things more quickly.

[bmohr]

great post. I just did this 4th of july weekend...all weekend! lol. i broke the exact same part. Did the same temp fix using one side of the broken double end nipple and a hose clamp till i pick up the new part afterwork today. I appreciated reading your post as I might also need to tackle the oil filler tube in the near future. Here's to Pcars and their brittle black plastic parts! lol

bmohr