Oh man! Someone cut the plastic on my top !

[gandrade1]

Hi guys,

It happened to me this weekend. Some unhappy guy slit the plastic window on my convertible top, I guess only for the fun of it :angry:

Ok, now my choices are: (1) pay the $1,000 comprehensive insurance detuctible + differential between the dealer hourly rate and the insurance covered rate and have a new top (with plastic) installed; (2) Find someone who will sew a plastic window on my current top (and, no I dont have the skills to do it myself) and I will be picking on its imperfections evrytime I look at it; (3) Pay the $1,000 bucks to the insurance and get a GAHH top installed by a reputable shop that doesn't go over the $50 hour rate that my insurance covers !!! 50 bucks, come on!

I need some guidance. What do you guys suggest?

Does anyone happen to know a good shop in NJ / NY area that will do the job well?

Thank you so much,

Gustavo

:renntech:

[1schoir]

Hi guys,

It happened to me this weekend. Some unhappy guy slit the plastic window on my convertible top, I guess only for the fun of it :angry:

Ok, now my choices are: (1) pay the $1,000 comprehensive insurance detuctible + differential between the dealer hourly rate and the insurance covered rate and have a new top (with plastic) installed; (2) Find someone who will sew a plastic window on my current top (and, no I dont have the skills to do it myself) and I will be picking on its imperfections evrytime I look at it; (3) Pay the $1,000 bucks to the insurance and get a GAHH top installed by a reputable shop that doesn't go over the $50 hour rate that my insurance covers !!! 50 bucks, come on!

I need some guidance. What do you guys suggest?

Does anyone happen to know a good shop in NJ / NY area that will do the job well?

Thank you so much,

Gustavo

:renntech:

Gustavo:

What a bummer! Where was your car when it happened?

If your top is in good shape (other than the cut window) you can save some money (and wear and tear on the canvas itself that would result from stripping and re-installing the top) by removing the entire top with the mechanism and bringing that to a reputable shop to sew in the vinyl window.

If you want to go down that route, let me know and I will post some steps on the removal and re-installation. Removal takes less than 1/2 hour and you cannot make a mistake when you re-install it because the bolts are self-centering.

Regards, Maurice.

[gandrade1]

Gustavo:

What a bummer! Where was your car when it happened?

If your top is in good shape (other than the cut window) you can save some money (and wear and tear on the canvas itself that would result from stripping and re-installing the top) by removing the entire top with the mechanism and bringing that to a reputable shop to sew in the vinyl window.

If you want to go down that route, let me know and I will post some steps on the removal and re-installation. Removal takes less than 1/2 hour and you cannot make a mistake when you re-install it because the bolts are self-centering.

Regards, Maurice.

I went to the movies on a shopping mall in NJ (Garden State Plaza) on Friday, but did not notice the cut until next morning when I woke up and decided to work on the Throttle Body cleaning. I park my car overnight in an individual garage so no way it could have happened there .

The route you suggest seem pretty reasonable. I would definitly appreciate if you could send me the steps. How do I find a reputable shop in the area? Have you heard of any?

Thanks,

Gus

[kbrandsma]

Gustavo,

So sorry to hear about your top. I would consider upgrading to a glass window if doable. I have a hard top as well with a rear window defroster. I think a soft top can also include the rear defroster.

Good luck and so sorry. Keep us posted!

K. Brandsma

Everett, WA

98 Boxster

[1schoir]

I went to the movies on a shopping mall in NJ (Garden State Plaza) on Friday, but did not notice the cut until next morning when I woke up and decided to work on the Throttle Body cleaning. I park my car overnight in an individual garage so no way it could have happened there .

The route you suggest seem pretty reasonable. I would definitly appreciate if you could send me the steps. How do I find a reputable shop in the area? Have you heard of any?

Thanks,

Gus

Gus:

It's not difficult to remove and re-install the old top with its mechanism, and there is no comparison between that job and replacing the canvas top. After you have your old top off you can take your old top to an upholsterer to sew in a new vinyl window (should cost between $100 to $200 if you bring them the top and re-install it yourself). That will also give you time to decide whether you later want to "upgrade" to a glass-windowed top, without having to rush into it.

Here is how to proceed:

1. Put the top in the service mode (if you are not sure how to do this, it's in the owner's manual), and make sure the clamshell is at it highest position (45 degree angle, as far back as possible). Unlatch the black/gray vinyl apron from its two plastic retainers on the rear firewall and pop off the two tension cables from their steel balls at the base of the cables. Now, reaching under the B-pillar round black knuckle at its base, pull off the white plastic cups (maybe red plastic if yours have never been replaced) from the steel balls that they are pressed on to. If you have too much trouble popping those off, you can undo the 10mm bolt (with thick washer) from the middle of the connecting arm that leads to the white plastic cups on one end and the front of the V-lever on the rearmost end of it. Before you undo that bolt, mark the point where the two halves of the connect arm are joined so that you don't have to guess at the correct length later. I have attached a photo, where the white arrow shows the 10mm bolt with thick washer. The yellow arrow shows where you should mark the position of the two halves of the connecting arm. The red circles show two of the three large bolts that must be removed (see step #3 below)

2. Now, from the inside of the passenger compartment (behind the outboard side of the driver's seat), remove the semi-circular carpet-covered plastic trim panel from around the base of the roll bar. This trim panel is attached with an 8mm bolt at the top (just loosen it, you don't have to remove it completely) and there is a phillips screw near the bottom that is well hidden in the carpet covering. The screw is about 6 or 8 inches from the floor and just forward of the firewall. Remove the panel. This will remove the defroster hook up, and you will see the B-pillar microswitch, which must be disconnected from its connector near the floor. There is also a zip-tie that will have to be cut, as the zip-tie holds the wire to the roll-bar.

3. Unbolt the 3 large bolts that are visible on the backside of top frame, looking under the rear of the B-Pillar while the top is in the service mode. Some Boxsters have a plastic box covering these three bolts, and this plastic box comes off with removal of two Phillips screws. The large bolts are self-centering, so it will not be difficult to re-install them in the correct position. The top, with the mechanism attached is still very light, but it is a little bulky, so you might want to have someone help you lift it off.

4. You may find a Phillips screw just ahead of the rearmost large bolt (visible in the photo indicated by the green arrow) on each side, and possibly another Phillips screw just aft of the forwardmost lower large bolt . Unscrew those Phillips screws and set them aside for later reassembly. You may also have to gently separate the foam liner from the metal bracket that has been pressed on for many years. Proceed carefully to insure that you do not rip, cut, or tear the foam liner.

5. Once the 3 bolts on each side (left and right) have been removed (and the two Phillips screws, one on each side), just slide the top back about one inch and then lift it straight up.

That's all there is to it.

As far as a reputable shop, there is a shop here on Long Island called Automat (in Hicksville) and they have been doing car interiors and convertible tops for more than 20 years. They advertise regularly in Car & Driver, etc. They do good work, but I don't know what they would charge for sewing in a new vinyl window.

You might do just as well finding a boat upholstery shop depending on how much you want to spend. If you need any other help, drop me a PM and I'll send you my phone number.

Good Luck! If you have any other questions or something above is not clear, let me know and I'll do my best to clear it up.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited November 9, 2009 by 1schoir

[kbrandsma]

Check this recent post

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=16350&hl=

K.Brandsma

[gandrade1]

2. Now, from the inside of the passenger compartment (behind the outboard side of the driver's seat), remove the semi-circular carpet-covered plastic trim panel from around the base of the roll bar. This trim panel is attached with an 8mm bolt at the top (just loosen it, you don't have to remove it completely) and there is a phillips screw near the bottom that is well hidden in the carpet covering. The screw is about 6 or 8 inches from the floor and just forward of the firewall. Remove the panel. This will remove the defroster hook up, and you will see the B-pillar microswitch, which must be disconnected from its connector near the floor. There is also a zip-tie that will have to be cut, as the zip-tie holds the wire to the roll-bar.

Hi Maurice,

Thank you so much for the complete instructions above.

I took a look at the top and found most of the parts you mentioned except the ones in number 2 above. Do you have any pics of what I have to disconnect here?

In addition, based on your experience on how to reassemble the top, do you think I should try to remove the 'plastic clips' (red in my case) or just go for removing the bolts with the big washers and marking the position of the 'arms'.

Thanks,

Gustavo

[1schoir]

Hi Maurice,

Thank you so much for the complete instructions above.

I took a look at the top and found most of the parts you mentioned except the ones in number 2 above. Do you have any pics of what I have to disconnect here?

In addition, based on your experience on how to reassemble the top, do you think I should try to remove the 'plastic clips' (red in my case) or just go for removing the bolts with the big washers and marking the position of the 'arms'.

Thanks,

Gustavo

Gustavo:

It's just as easy to pop off the two red plastic ball cups and then grease them up with a little white lithium grease afterwards to pop them back on. The only caution is because you have the red plastic ball cups (and not the updated white ball cups) they tend to be brittle and may crack more easily.

The red plastic ball cups that are on your car are probably the original ones that came with the car, so I would say their remaining useful life is limited. If your top is operating perfectly and smoothly they'll hold out. If there is any resistance that develops from some other malfunction in the top, however minor, they will crack and fall apart.

If you decide to remove the 10mm bolts, just make absolutely sure that you have marked the position very clearly. Then, after you have the top removed, you can carefully take off the red plastic cups and re-attach those arms with the red plastic cups to the other part of the arms that remained on the V-levers and then pop on the red plastic cups onto the steel knuckles at the base of the B-pillars after you install the top.

I will look for photos of the carpeted plastic trim that covers the B-Pillar and post them ASAP.

Regards, Maurice.

[1schoir]

Hi Maurice,

Thank you so much for the complete instructions above.

I took a look at the top and found most of the parts you mentioned except the ones in number 2 above. Do you have any pics of what I have to disconnect here?

In addition, based on your experience on how to reassemble the top, do you think I should try to remove the 'plastic clips' (red in my case) or just go for removing the bolts with the big washers and marking the position of the 'arms'.

Thanks,

Gustavo

Gustavo:

Here is a photo of that "semi-circular" or semi-tubular carpeted trim piece, showing the B-pillar microswitch (click on the photo to blow it up for a better view):

(Note that for this photo, that carpeted trim piece has already been pulled apart about 3 inches, so as to expose the B-Pillar microswitch).

The red arrow is pointing to the B-pillar microswitch lever arm.

The yellow arrow is pointing to the one screw that you must remove to be able to pull the microswitch off the frame. Aside from that one screw, there is a small plastic nub on the microswitch housing that presses into another hole in the frame.

The white circle shows the general area where the 8mm bolt must be loosened (not removed completely). The seat belts are in the way in this photo, but that bolt is located behind them, just to the driver's side of the carpet pad that covers the engine compartment.

The only other fastener is the phillips screw that is, as I spelled out above, about 6 to 8 inches above the floorpan of the car, just forward of the rear firewall that frames the vertical engine cover.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited March 6, 2008 by 1schoir

[royalwulff14]

Hi, could you help with top removal. We've followed your excellent directions through step 3 and have removed the 3 bolts on each side. However, the top will not slide back, in fact it doesn't move at all. I assume the brackets, into which the 3 bolts went, comes out with the top. It seems stuck to the black foam. Am I on the right track to pry the foam away and force the top back somehow? Thank you.

[1schoir]

Hi, could you help with top removal. We've followed your excellent directions through step 3 and have removed the 3 bolts on each side. However, the top will not slide back, in fact it doesn't move at all. I assume the brackets, into which the 3 bolts went, comes out with the top. It seems stuck to the black foam. Am I on the right track to pry the foam away and force the top back somehow? Thank you.

I am assuming we are talking about a Model Year '97 Boxster (from your profile). If you are not the original owner, there is a possibility some modification was made by the prior owner, however minor. Stick a small mirror under each side of the B-Pillar, in the vicinity of where the 3 bolts came out and verify that there aren't any additonal fasteners that might have been added, for whatever reason.

If you don't see any fasteners, I am pretty sure that the only thing holding the frame in place is the ten years that it has been pressed against the bracket and the foam liner. Start by gently trying to separate the foam liner from under the frame, possibly using a plastic wedge (windshield shops call this a plastic spoon) or similar tool without sharp edges. Work it gently but firmly back and forth until the foam is separated. Then grab one side of the frame mechanism, while standing on the side of the car (and while facing the side of the car), and try to "break it free". I'm reasonably confident that it will let go and you'll be able to slide the top out by pulling it in the rearward direction. If that works on one side, do the same on the other side.

Let me know if this is clear or if you make any progress.

Regards, Maurice.

[Nurvus]

Having just removed the convertible top structure from my 1998 base Boxster, I wanted to share one point that might help someone.

Apparently some 986s have screws in addition to bolts connecting the structural base of the soft top to the car. Maurice's car appears to have one screw on each side.

In my case, there were TWO such screws on each side, and man did I wrestle with it before noticing this. So to save someone else this experience, I attach a photo showing the screws on the passenger side, which appear inside the green circles. The location of the three bolts, which had been removed already, is shown by the pink arrows.

Edited November 7, 2009 by Nurvus

[1schoir]

Having just removed the convertible top structure from my 1998 base Boxster, I wanted to share one point that might help someone.

Apparently some 986s have screws in addition to bolts connecting the structural base of the soft top to the car. Maurice's car appears to have one screw on each side.

In my case, there were TWO such screws on each side, and man did I wrestle with it before noticing this. So to save someone else this experience, I attach a photo showing the screws on the passenger side, which appear inside the green circles. The location of the three bolts, which had been removed already, is shown by the pink arrows.

Nurvus:

Thanks for the clarification/correction. I have edited my post above to reflect the more correct information.

Regards, Maurice.

[jarvis]

Hi guys,

It happened to me this weekend. Some unhappy guy slit the plastic window on my convertible top, I guess only for the fun of it :angry:

Ok, now my choices are: (1) pay the $1,000 comprehensive insurance detuctible + differential between the dealer hourly rate and the insurance covered rate and have a new top (with plastic) installed; (2) Find someone who will sew a plastic window on my current top (and, no I dont have the skills to do it myself) and I will be picking on its imperfections evrytime I look at it; (3) Pay the $1,000 bucks to the insurance and get a GAHH top installed by a reputable shop that doesn't go over the $50 hour rate that my insurance covers !!! 50 bucks, come on!

I need some guidance. What do you guys suggest?

Does anyone happen to know a good shop in NJ / NY area that will do the job well?

Thank you so much,

Gustavo

:renntech:

hi gustavo ,last year my plastic window split,i bought a glass replacement one from a place in warrington england ,it took me and friend half a day to fit ,it looks great it only cost me £350 so do it yourself

[eVoMotion]

Thanks for the great write-ups. Our cracked recently and the wife asked to me again this morning to get on it. Now I know how to.

[1schoir]

Thanks for the great write-ups. Our cracked recently and the wife asked to me again this morning to get on it. Now I know how to.

Evo:

If you run into any roadblocks, just post here or send me a PM and I'll be glad to help.

Be sure to have the new parts that you will have to replace on hand before you start so that you don't get hung up.

Regards, Maurice.

[pficarra1@rochester.rr.com]

Hi guys,

It happened to me this weekend. Some unhappy guy slit the plastic window on my convertible top, I guess only for the fun of it

Ok, now my choices are: (1) pay the $1,000 comprehensive insurance detuctible + differential between the dealer hourly rate and the insurance covered rate and have a new top (with plastic) installed; (2) Find someone who will sew a plastic window on my current top (and, no I dont have the skills to do it myself) and I will be picking on its imperfections evrytime I look at it; (3) Pay the $1,000 bucks to the insurance and get a GAHH top installed by a reputable shop that doesn't go over the $50 hour rate that my insurance covers !!! 50 bucks, come on!

I need some guidance. What do you guys suggest?

Does anyone happen to know a good shop in NJ / NY area that will do the job well?

Thank you so much,

Gustavo

I just took my top off my 99 Boxster(easy job) and had a new widow installed as the factory did for 200 bucks at a shop called Best Canvas in Williamson ny. His name is Igor Dilai and he took the canvas off the top frame and it looks like factory. I am very happy with his work and saved the rip off of a new Boxster top installation. His Phone is 315-589-7400

Edited May 22, 2010 by pficarra1@rochester.rr.com

[juniinc]

That is a good deal!

We usually charge $600,,,

[pficarra1@rochester.rr.com]

That is a good deal!

We usually charge $600,,,

Yes I know, but I removed the top and reinstalled it. Even $600 is better than a new top! I might add

Egor just opened a new business after many years working for someone else and Rochester NY is a depressed area. My Boxster is black with 18" sport wheels and it looks like a diffrent car with a new window. Pete

[Guest]

You may want to consider/call Cabrioworld in Newark NJ....(cabrioworld.com) I have not used them but they advertise in Excellence magazine...there is also a center that advertises on Craigslist. They are out in Parsippany and although they do boats they also advertise that they do any type of convertible/canvas work. Check either in the services area or the "for sale" and type porsche boxster .... I think that is where I saw them advertise.

That is a good deal!

We usually charge $600,,,

Yes I know, but I removed the top and reinstalled it. Even $600 is better than a new top! I might add

Egor just opened a new business after many years working for someone else and Rochester NY is a depressed area. My Boxster is black with 18" sport wheels and it looks like a diffrent car with a new window. Pete