ahh, not again.

[djomlas]

so just pulled these.

all these CEL's came on after i installed the EVOMS intake.

tried cleaning the maf few times, CEL came back on.

what do you guys suggest? just get a new one and see what happens, or is there another way around? or install the stock intake stuff back in.

also, would changing to a different non-oiled intake filter help?

thx in advance

[boggtown]

The answer is obvious. Put the stock intake back on immediately, and sell your evoms. I will give you 100 bucks...

[djomlas]

u would also like to get some codes?

[jmatta]

You didn't happen to oil the intake, did you? I understand they now come pre-oiled (since I purchased mine) and over oiling can cause lots of problems. If not, did you check to be sure everything was seated tightly? Did you loosen the intake to install? If so, there may be leaks somewhere. I installed my EVO Hi Flow well over a year ago and have had no issues whatsoever; only the pleasure of hearing my intake everytime I jump on it.

[djomlas]

no installed it as is, didnt oil it anymore than what it was on there...

[djomlas]

UPDATE>

i just ordered a new MAF sensor so i will see if that will fix the problem.

btw, i turned it on today and it was acting up really bad, i would push the gas pedal and right around 3 k or so it would not really like it, it seems like its something stuffed in the intake or something, thats what it feels like, but obviously thats not it lol.

i unplugged the MAF and it was even worse....should that be the case? its sputtering, like theres not enough air coming in

[Chris_in_NH]

UPDATE>

i just ordered a new MAF sensor so i will see if that will fix the problem.

btw, i turned it on today and it was acting up really bad, i would push the gas pedal and right around 3 k or so it would not really like it, it seems like its something stuffed in the intake or something, thats what it feels like, but obviously thats not it lol.

i unplugged the MAF and it was even worse....should that be the case? its sputtering, like theres not enough air coming in

most people that order new MAFs quickly find out (expensively) that the MAF was not the problem to begin with.

if you are going to unplug the MAF, you need to reset the DME/ECU by disconnecting the neg battery cable for at least a minute (have your radio code if your radio needs one) and then reconnect the neg cable and start the car. same process if you re-install the MAF. that might explain why it's running worse...

in my experience most 1128/1130 codes turn out to be a vacuum leak somewhere. usual suspects are the oil filler tube, A/OS bellows tube, and any loose caps (oil/coolant/gas). but since you have an aftermarket intake installed, i suppose that it might have something to do with your codes. if you can go back to stock easily, give it a try, erase your codes, and see if they show up again.

[djomlas]

so then how do you suggest that i test the existing MAF and find out if thats th problem?

i will keep in mind when putting a new one on to do the one minute wait w neg battery lead removed.

Edited July 19, 2007 by djomlas

[Chris_in_NH]

so then how do you suggest that i test the existing MAF and find out if thats th problem?

i will keep in mind when putting a new one on to do the one minute wait w neg battery lead removed.

i told you all this in the post above. but here it is again.

to test your MAF you need to unclip the MAF's wiring harness, then disconnect the battery for a minute, then reconnect the battery, then start the car. if it runs better with the MAF disconnected, then the MAF is probably bad. if you want to make sure the MAF is bad, plug the MAF's wiring harness back into the MAF, disconnect the battery for a minute, reconnect the battery and start the car. if it runs worse, then your MAF is most certainly bad.

if it runs the same with the MAF connected and disconnected, then the problem probably lies elsewhere - like your aftermarket intake.

you may get a couple codes (P0102, P0112) while the MAF is unplugged but that is expected.

Edited July 19, 2007 by Chris_in_NH

[djomlas]

O nice thanks for clarifying that

[djomlas]

well, did the test with unplugging the connector and then the battery like you said, and what do you know runs fine, no hesitation,.

reversed it, and runs like sh!t. so tomorrow i will be getting the new MAf and i hope its all fixed

[Chris_in_NH]

well, did the test with unplugging the connector and then the battery like you said, and what do you know runs fine, no hesitation,.

reversed it, and runs like sh!t. so tomorrow i will be getting the new MAf and i hope its all fixed

that will be $10. :lol:

i think http://www.autohausaz.com has the best prices on MAFs these days.

[djomlas]

i bought the MAF from them, came in within 2 days.

GREAT NEWS!

put the new MAF, reset the ECU, and the car feels better than ever.

i would like to say that i gained HP, but the fact of the matter is car probably got the power back hehe, love the feel, absolutely no hesitation when gas pedal is pushed, car responds great.

thx for your help guys, i know this forum saved me money, and i bet thats the case for a lot of people here, love it.

[00boxster]

well, did the test with unplugging the connector and then the battery like you said, and what do you know runs fine, no hesitation,.

reversed it, and runs like sh!t. so tomorrow i will be getting the new MAf and i hope its all fixed

that will be $10. :lol:

i think http://www.autohausaz.com has the best prices on MAFs these days.

I will be doing my first MAF clean and reset of the computer and just wondering do you guys drive the car without all the engine covers on or just idle it in your garage? What sorta time frame should you give the computer to adjust and therefore descide if its a MAF problem or not?