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Posted (edited)

Replacing Rubber Bellows Under 996 Rear Spoiler


These rubber "accordians" can crack over time. Fortunately the rubber piece is only around $60, and can be replaced easily. You'll need to set aside about an hour and a half if you haven't done this before. Tools needed: Flat-bladed screwdriver 4mm allen wrench Ratchet with short extension and 10mm socket Parts needed: The bellows Two plastic expanding fasteners (might come with the bellows) First, deploy your spoiler manually, and shut off the ingnition.

 

Edited by RandalJ
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Just did mine this moring. Thanks for the great writeup and pictures. I only have a couple comments based on my experience.

1) It isn't nessesary to completely remove the 4mm bolts to get the top plastic spoiler cover off or back on. It is easier to put on with the lid down so the rectangular washers stay open though.

2) The two plastic snaps on the top edges are possible to remove without destroying. It wasny easy but I was able to push the center part back through the snap allowing it to collapse and be pulled out and reused.

3) I 'lost' two fo the metal clips on the bottom bracket when they suddenly popped off. Where do all those little parts that fly off go anyway? hehe

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Thank you so much for your posting and pics!

I spent a good part of the evening looking for

this information and it was well worth it!!

This forum is great!! :thumbup:

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted
These rubber "accordians" can crack over time. Fortunately the rubber piece is only around $60, and can be replaced easily. You'll need to set aside about an hour and a half if you haven't done this before.

Tools needed:

Flat-bladed screwdriver

4mm allen wrench

Ratchet with short extension and 10mm socket

Parts needed:

The bellows

Two plastic expanding fasteners (might come with the bellows)

First, deploy your spoiler manually, and shut off the ingnition. No need to disconnect the battery.

You will see, along the rear edge, four caps, as seen below. These pry out easily with your fingers or with a flat bladed screwdriver. No paint to worry about, just try not to mar the plastic.

post-4723-1164682010_thumb.jpg

With the caps off you can access the 4mm allen head bolts:

post-4723-1164682539_thumb.jpg

I found these to be a bit tight due to exposure to the elements, but I was able to get them off with an allen key. A long allen socket would work better.

Once the bolts are out, the top tray (painted part) of the spoiler can be slid toward the rear and off. Put it somewhere where it won't be scratched.

post-4723-1164682625_thumb.jpg

Now you can see the fasteners holding the top of the bellows to the spoiler. There are two explanding plastic fasteners, one on each corner, and several sliding hooks. I destroyed my plastic fasteners since my new bellows came with new ones. Just nipped them off with wire cutters.

With the two plastic fasteners off you can disengage the hooks and detach the top of the bellows by sliding it to the right, and down. The top edge of the bellows is actually sandwiched between a long metal strip and the spoiler. The metal strip has the hooks that go through pre-cut holes in the bellows.

post-4723-1164683370_thumb.jpg

View from below:

post-4723-1164683506_thumb.jpg

With top of bellows detached:

post-4723-1164683721_thumb.jpg

With the top of the bellows detached, open the engine lid. You will see several circular clips holding the bottom of the bellows to the engine lid:

post-4723-1164683792_thumb.jpg

There is one under the fan, so you will have to detach the fan. Just three 10mm bolts. Just let it hang by the cable, out of your way. Be careful not to scratch your paint while removing the clips. In my case, the clips themselves had scratched the paint a bit. Fortunately this is one of the body areas that receives only a "rough" paint job from the factory anyway. Save those clips. It is not necessary to replace them.

With the clips removed, you can pull the bellows out.

As with the top, there is another frame piece running the length of the bottom of the bellows. This sandwiches the bottom of the bellows to the engine lid. The bellows has pre-cut holes for the nubs on the metal strip:

post-4723-1164684368_thumb.jpg

Lay your old bellows alongside you new one, so that you can see how the top and bottom frame strips fit.

Reassembly:

Transfer your frame pieces to your new bellows.

Then attach bottom of bellows to engine lid with the circular clips. Push those numbs through and get those clips up as tight as possible. The idea is to clamp onto the lower bellows edge.

Re-attach the fan.

Close engine lid

Make sure the top frame piece hooks are threaded through the top of the bellows, push up through the corresponding holes in the spoiler, and slide to the left to secure. Make sure all of the hooks are engaged and snug. Then insert and secure the two plastic expanding fasteners in the corners. This step will confirm that you have the bellows and the spoiler snug and aligned properly.

Now grab your painted spoiler top, and look under it to make sure the locking tabs are lined up. Push down, and slide toward the front of the car to lock the tabs. The top and bottom of the spoiler should mate very well. If you feel gaps around any edges, check and adjust.

Finally, secure the top of the spoiler with the four allen screws. Put the plastic caps on, and manually raise and lower the spoiler to make sure you haven't left any tools in there...

  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

Thank you, thank you, thank you!

These are the best instructions I've followed for an auto DIY in a long time. The job was just as described and took about as long as you said. Perfect!

The only thing missed in the description that I did to make life easier was to remove the 3rd brake light in order to slide the upper metal retainer out of position.

The part number that you need for this item is:

Spoiler Trim, Porsche Part #: 996 512 250 00

I bought mind from Sunset Imports for $68.24

Edited by oreganet
  • 8 months later...
Posted
These rubber "accordians" can crack over time. Fortunately the rubber piece is only around $60, and can be replaced easily. You'll need to set aside about an hour and a half if you haven't done this before.

Tools needed:

Flat-bladed screwdriver

4mm allen wrench

Ratchet with short extension and 10mm socket

Parts needed:

The bellows

Two plastic expanding fasteners (might come with the bellows)

First, deploy your spoiler manually, and shut off the ingnition. No need to disconnect the battery.

You will see, along the rear edge, four caps, as seen below. These pry out easily with your fingers or with a flat bladed screwdriver. No paint to worry about, just try not to mar the plastic.

post-4723-1164682010_thumb.jpg

With the caps off you can access the 4mm allen head bolts:

post-4723-1164682539_thumb.jpg

I found these to be a bit tight due to exposure to the elements, but I was able to get them off with an allen key. A long allen socket would work better.

Once the bolts are out, the top tray (painted part) of the spoiler can be slid toward the rear and off. Put it somewhere where it won't be scratched.

post-4723-1164682625_thumb.jpg

Now you can see the fasteners holding the top of the bellows to the spoiler. There are two explanding plastic fasteners, one on each corner, and several sliding hooks. I destroyed my plastic fasteners since my new bellows came with new ones. Just nipped them off with wire cutters.

With the two plastic fasteners off you can disengage the hooks and detach the top of the bellows by sliding it to the right, and down. The top edge of the bellows is actually sandwiched between a long metal strip and the spoiler. The metal strip has the hooks that go through pre-cut holes in the bellows.

post-4723-1164683370_thumb.jpg

View from below:

post-4723-1164683506_thumb.jpg

With top of bellows detached:

post-4723-1164683721_thumb.jpg

With the top of the bellows detached, open the engine lid. You will see several circular clips holding the bottom of the bellows to the engine lid:

post-4723-1164683792_thumb.jpg

There is one under the fan, so you will have to detach the fan. Just three 10mm bolts. Just let it hang by the cable, out of your way. Be careful not to scratch your paint while removing the clips. In my case, the clips themselves had scratched the paint a bit. Fortunately this is one of the body areas that receives only a "rough" paint job from the factory anyway. Save those clips. It is not necessary to replace them.

With the clips removed, you can pull the bellows out.

As with the top, there is another frame piece running the length of the bottom of the bellows. This sandwiches the bottom of the bellows to the engine lid. The bellows has pre-cut holes for the nubs on the metal strip:

post-4723-1164684368_thumb.jpg

Lay your old bellows alongside you new one, so that you can see how the top and bottom frame strips fit.

Reassembly:

Transfer your frame pieces to your new bellows.

Then attach bottom of bellows to engine lid with the circular clips. Push those numbs through and get those clips up as tight as possible. The idea is to clamp onto the lower bellows edge.

Re-attach the fan.

Close engine lid

Make sure the top frame piece hooks are threaded through the top of the bellows, push up through the corresponding holes in the spoiler, and slide to the left to secure. Make sure all of the hooks are engaged and snug. Then insert and secure the two plastic expanding fasteners in the corners. This step will confirm that you have the bellows and the spoiler snug and aligned properly.

Now grab your painted spoiler top, and look under it to make sure the locking tabs are lined up. Push down, and slide toward the front of the car to lock the tabs. The top and bottom of the spoiler should mate very well. If you feel gaps around any edges, check and adjust.

Finally, secure the top of the spoiler with the four allen screws. Put the plastic caps on, and manually raise and lower the spoiler to make sure you haven't left any tools in there...

Nice write up.

BTW, is there anything we can put on the rubber bellow to make it last longer?

  • 3 years later...
Posted

Great DIY. This was so much easier than the same issue was on my 993. My total time was less than 30 minutes.

As 911 Dark said above, you might salvage the 2 plastic end fasteners, but I would suggest just getting new ones before you start. They were not packed with my bellows. I ended up going to a big box home improvement store and getting a couple 0.5 inch screws with a low profile head and nut to use.

Also I would have new circa clips ready before you start. I did salvage all of mine but they don't look to be in the best of health after 12 years.

  • 11 months later...
Posted

Just want to put in my two cents worth, this was a real easy project and I did it in less than an hour and all went exactly as stated. So I want to thank everyone again for their input. This board is a great resource.

Thanks

Matt

  • 1 year later...
Posted

My bellows is in great shape but the spoiler was peeling. I replaced it in i7 min. Great DIY and great directions.

Thanx

  • 6 years later...
Posted

I used these instructions, and they are great. Haven’t finished yet due to missing circ clips to hold the flat metal piece to to bottom of the spoiler. I also wound up losing two of the top screws?! I have no idea where the darned things went.it’s driving me nuts. Hope they didn’t go anywhere they could cause problems. I guess i’ll find out one way or the other.😳

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Hi, any pointers on how to remove those 8 clamping washers (that hold the bottom rail of bellows to the engine lid) without scratching paint around the washers. 

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