Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

  • Admin
Posted

Porsche does not show that as a valid code for their cars. From the Standardized DTC to SAE J 2012 (DTC-Diagnostic Trouble Codes) generic code list that means: O2 Control (Bank 2) System too lean

Posted
Porsche does not show that as a valid code for their cars. From the Standardized DTC to SAE J 2012 (DTC-Diagnostic Trouble Codes) generic code list that means: O2 Control (Bank 2) System too lean

Thanks, and more questions: which side is the bank 2?

And what might cause the system to be too lean?

When I start the car, no white smoke comes out, but after a while there quite much smoke. I changed the oils separator about 200 miles ago, but looks like it´s not the problem.

I also had codes 1121 and 0140 present. What should I do.

Greetings from Spain

  • Admin
Posted

It would have been nice if you told us everything to start with...

If you have a lot of smoke then oil (and/or coolant) is burning and you are going to get lots of O2 sensor codes (which you are).

You need to determine and correct the cause of the smoke. Oil smoke smells like oil and coolant smoke smells sweet.

or... perhaps the oil seperator was not installed properly and has slipped off?

Posted
It would have been nice if you told us everything to start with...

If you have a lot of smoke then oil (and/or coolant) is burning and you are going to get lots of O2 sensor codes (which you are).

You need to determine and correct the cause of the smoke. Oil smoke smells like oil and coolant smoke smells sweet.

or... perhaps the oil seperator was not installed properly and has slipped off?

I agree my description was not enough. Sorry for that! This forum has solved me so many problems before (without asking a question, just seraching the previous posts). Many thanks for all members!

There is more and more white smoke getting out. I checked the oil separator, and at least I could not locate any oil leaks and looks like the installation is OK. One thing: the mechanic used the old top tube going from the separator to the air intake. He said that he heated the tube a bit and it slipped into it´s place. There are no visible dents or obstuctions in this tube, so I don´t think this is the cause, but..?

The engine burns a lot of oil ( 1 liter per 1000 kilometers), and I noticed that the coolant level has gone down as well. I have not noticed that the engine has overheated.

Are symptons for burnt head gasket, or ..?

Many thanks

Kare

Posted

Drain a quart of oil from the sump. Look at it. Normal? Abnormal? Put oil back in from the top into the tank. Report back and describe the condition of the oil. Clean look like oil? look like milk?.

Posted
Drain a quart of oil from the sump. Look at it. Normal? Abnormal? Put oil back in from the top into the tank. Report back and describe the condition of the oil. Clean look like oil? look like milk?.
You can also send it in for analysis to see what's going on in there. I use Blackstone Labs at every oil change to keep up with what's going on in the engine.
Posted
Drain a quart of oil from the sump. Look at it. Normal? Abnormal? Put oil back in from the top into the tank. Report back and describe the condition of the oil. Clean look like oil? look like milk?.

Took the oil "sample". Everything looks normal, the oil is like new (it has about 3500 miles on it now).

When I start the engine, it takes about 3 minutes until the BLUE SMOKE comes out. There´s a lot of smoke until the engine reaches the normal operating temperature, then much less (but more than normal).

The funny thing is there´s not the normal/typical initial smoke coming out at starting.

What you think?

Posted

I think I'd be tempted to have a cylinder leakage test done. At least it would check the worst case scenario of worn rings, and maybe valve guides. If it is burning that amount of oil there would seem to be something serious going on. You could also try a pressure check on the cooling system, as it might show a head gasket leak. Any oil in the water?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.