My 1998 Boxter Top wont go up or down

[joebarri]

I have a 98 Boxter NOT the S. My top occasionally will go up or down but not often. When i press and unlatch the overhead latch to release my windows do drop about 2" when i lock it back up it raises back up again. So i do believe it not that switch. I have raised and lowered it before and yes i do engage my parking brake and the dash board light always comes on showing me and i assume telling me that my brake switch is not the problem. The other day i took off the latch with the T 30 hex driver inspected and cleaned with alcohol all the switch and around contacts etc... and reasembled and it did go down and up but just once dont know if it was just coincidental or as a result. But now it still does nothing. I am begining to think it a relay but all is see are parts numbers for the 2000 Boxter #986.618.199.00 posted here on this forum. Is this the same or exact relay i need or is it different for my 1998 Boxter? Help please any advise or solutions? :D

[1schoir]

I have a 98 Boxter NOT the S. My top occasionally will go up or down but not often. When i press and unlatch the overhead latch to release my windows do drop about 2" when i lock it back up it raises back up again. So i do believe it not that switch. I have raised and lowered it before and yes i do engage my parking brake and the dash board light always comes on showing me and i assume telling me that my brake switch is not the problem. The other day i took off the latch with the T 30 hex driver inspected and cleaned with alcohol all the switch and around contacts etc... and reasembled and it did go down and up but just once dont know if it was just coincidental or as a result. But now it still does nothing. I am begining to think it a relay but all is see are parts numbers for the 2000 Boxter #986.618.199.00 posted here on this forum. Is this the same or exact relay i need or is it different for my 1998 Boxter? Help please any advise or solutions? :D

Joe:

If your windows drop when you pull the latch, and your dashboard light lights up when you pull up on the brake handle, then you only have five possible culprits remaining:

1. Fuses (two of them),

2. Convertible top electric motor.

3. Convertible top dashboard switch.

4. Convertible top control module

5. Wiring

1. There are two fuses that affect the convertible top operation: Fuse D3 gives power to the electric motor

Fuse B6 gives power to the top control module

Note that even if these fuses "look good" you should pull them off, clean the contacts in the fuse tray and try new ones. It could be some surface corrosion or a loose connection where the spades press into the fuse tray.

2. To test the motor, pull off the drive cables from each side of the electric motor by first pulling up on the upside down U-clip. Press the switch and listen for the whirring of the motor. You can also look into the sides of the motor and see if the female square drives are spinning. You can test the motor and the switch at the same time by pulling off the wires at the motor and using a voltmeter to see if you are getting power to the wires that go to the motor when you depress the switch (be sure to have the latch pulled down and the parking brake pulled up with the light on when you do any of this).

On my Boxster (MY 97) there are 5 wires connected to the motor by means of a plug. The two heavier gauge wires supply power to the motor. Press the switch and see if you get power (12 volts) to the wires. If you do, then you may have a bad motor.

3. If you dont get power when you press the switch (again assuming that your windows dropped the 4 inches when you pulled the latch and the brake light is on when you have pulled up on the handbrake) then it is either the relay, the switch itself, or one of the two fuses mentioned above. You can test the switch by pulling it out of the dashboard (it pulls straight out with some force) and using a multimeter to test its operation.

4. The convertible top control module is like a mini computer. It controls the drop of your windows when you pull on the latch, as well as when the power to the motor is cut after the clamshell closes down completely, etc...

The part number for MY 97 to 99 is listed as 986.618.111.02

The part number for MY 00 to 04 is listed as 986.618.199.00 although there is a reference to the "M439" option which, if it exists in MY 97 to MY99, this part number can be used in those as well. (I believe the M439 refers to a code that is printed on the central alarm control unit under the seat, but I'm not 100% positive. Perhaps someone else can clear that up here).

Try to pull off the module and clean the contacts. Then give it a couple of sharp raps and press it on and off the relay tray.

Here is a photo from Tool Pants that shows its location:

The green X marks the spot. It's the only double relay there. (Note that the fuses mentioned above are below the location of this relay tray)

5. Let's hope you don't have to go through the wiring because it's a PITA.

Let us know if you make any progress.

Regards, Maurice.

[joebarri]

I have a 98 Boxter NOT the S. My top occasionally will go up or down but not often. When i press and unlatch the overhead latch to release my windows do drop about 2" when i lock it back up it raises back up again. So i do believe it not that switch. I have raised and lowered it before and yes i do engage my parking brake and the dash board light always comes on showing me and i assume telling me that my brake switch is not the problem. The other day i took off the latch with the T 30 hex driver inspected and cleaned with alcohol all the switch and around contacts etc... and reasembled and it did go down and up but just once dont know if it was just coincidental or as a result. But now it still does nothing. I am begining to think it a relay but all is see are parts numbers for the 2000 Boxter #986.618.199.00 posted here on this forum. Is this the same or exact relay i need or is it different for my 1998 Boxter? Help please any advise or solutions? :D

Joe:

If your windows drop when you pull the latch, and your dashboard light lights up when you pull up on the brake handle, then you only have five possible culprits remaining:

1. Fuses (two of them),

2. Convertible top electric motor.

3. Convertible top dashboard switch.

4. Convertible top control module

5. Wiring

1. There are two fuses that affect the convertible top operation: Fuse D3 gives power to the electric motor

Fuse B6 gives power to the top control module

Note that even if these fuses "look good" you should pull them off, clean the contacts in the fuse tray and try new ones. It could be some surface corrosion or a loose connection where the spades press into the fuse tray.

2. To test the motor, pull off the drive cables from each side of the electric motor by first pulling up on the upside down U-clip. Press the switch and listen for the whirring of the motor. You can also look into the sides of the motor and see if the female square drives are spinning. You can test the motor and the switch at the same time by pulling off the wires at the motor and using a voltmeter to see if you are getting power to the wires that go to the motor when you depress the switch (be sure to have the latch pulled down and the parking brake pulled up with the light on when you do any of this).

On my Boxster (MY 97) there are 5 wires connected to the motor by means of a plug. The two heavier gauge wires supply power to the motor. Press the switch and see if you get power (12 volts) to the wires. If you do, then you may have a bad motor.

3. If you dont get power when you press the switch (again assuming that your windows dropped the 4 inches when you pulled the latch and the brake light is on when you have pulled up on the handbrake) then it is either the relay, the switch itself, or one of the two fuses mentioned above. You can test the switch by pulling it out of the dashboard (it pulls straight out with some force) and using a multimeter to test its operation.

4. The convertible top control module is like a mini computer. It controls the drop of your windows when you pull on the latch, as well as when the power to the motor is cut after the clamshell closes down completely, etc...

The part number for MY 97 to 99 is listed as 986.618.111.02

The part number for MY 00 to 04 is listed as 986.618.199.00 although there is a reference to the "M439" option which, if it exists in MY 97 to MY99, this part number can be used in those as well. (I believe the M439 refers to a code that is printed on the central alarm control unit under the seat, but I'm not 100% positive. Perhaps someone else can clear that up here).

Try to pull off the module and clean the contacts. Then give it a couple of sharp raps and press it on and off the relay tray.

Here is a photo from Tool Pants that shows its location:

The green X marks the spot. It's the only double relay there. (Note that the fuses mentioned above are below the location of this relay tray)

5. Let's hope you don't have to go through the wiring because it's a PITA.

Let us know if you make any progress.

Regards, Maurice.

[joebarri]

Ok ive tried checking the fuses (both) tried a relay from a friends boxter and still it did not work on my vehicle and tried my relay on his boxter and it performs as expected (no problems). As i have stated before my windows drop the required 2" or maybe 4" when the latch is opened so i believe that is an indication that that the overhead switch is ok, my brake light on the dash lights up when the hand break is engaged, the only two things left i noticed is that my dashboard convertible top light does not come on when i depress the dashboard switch nor does it raise or lower my top. As i mentioned before occasionally when it does work it goes up and down flawlessly. I dont know what the dash board convertible light not coming on idicates and i have yet to check the convertible top motor to see if its getting the 12 volts when the dash button is depressed. Any insight as to why my dash light wont come on, any further advice is appreciated. I will try the last thing i know today and that is checking out the if any voltage is getting to my convertible top motor or not. Thank You.

[1schoir]

Ok ive tried checking the fuses (both) tried a relay from a friends boxter and still it did not work on my vehicle and tried my relay on his boxter and it performs as expected (no problems). As i have stated before my windows drop the required 2" or maybe 4" when the latch is opened so i believe that is an indication that that the overhead switch is ok, my brake light on the dash lights up when the hand break is engaged, the only two things left i noticed is that my dashboard convertible top light does not come on when i depress the dashboard switch nor does it raise or lower my top. As i mentioned before occasionally when it does work it goes up and down flawlessly. I dont know what the dash board convertible light not coming on idicates and i have yet to check the convertible top motor to see if its getting the 12 volts when the dash button is depressed. Any insight as to why my dash light wont come on, any further advice is appreciated. I will try the last thing i know today and that is checking out the if any voltage is getting to my convertible top motor or not. Thank You.

Joe:

If the convertible top light does not go on at all when you press the switch, it may be the switch itself.

If the motor does not spin when you depress the switch, apply 12 volts directly to the motor.

If the motor spins when you apply the 12 volts, then it's a faulty switch or loose wiring to the switch.

Sounds like you are making progress.

Regards, Maurice.

[1schoir]

Ok ive tried checking the fuses (both) tried a relay from a friends boxter and still it did not work on my vehicle and tried my relay on his boxter and it performs as expected (no problems). As i have stated before my windows drop the required 2" or maybe 4" when the latch is opened so i believe that is an indication that that the overhead switch is ok, my brake light on the dash lights up when the hand break is engaged, the only two things left i noticed is that my dashboard convertible top light does not come on when i depress the dashboard switch nor does it raise or lower my top. As i mentioned before occasionally when it does work it goes up and down flawlessly. I dont know what the dash board convertible light not coming on idicates and i have yet to check the convertible top motor to see if its getting the 12 volts when the dash button is depressed. Any insight as to why my dash light wont come on, any further advice is appreciated. I will try the last thing i know today and that is checking out the if any voltage is getting to my convertible top motor or not. Thank You.

Joe:

Now that you have eliminated the top control module, if the convertible top light does not go on at all when you press the switch, it may be the switch itself.

If the motor does not spin when you depress the switch, apply 12 volts directly to the motor.

If the motor spins when you apply the 12 volts, then it's a faulty switch or loose wiring to the switch.

Sounds like you are making progress.

Regards, Maurice.

[joebarri]

Ok ive tried checking the fuses (both) tried a relay from a friends boxter and still it did not work on my vehicle and tried my relay on his boxter and it performs as expected (no problems). As i have stated before my windows drop the required 2" or maybe 4" when the latch is opened so i believe that is an indication that that the overhead switch is ok, my brake light on the dash lights up when the hand break is engaged, the only two things left i noticed is that my dashboard convertible top light does not come on when i depress the dashboard switch nor does it raise or lower my top. As i mentioned before occasionally when it does work it goes up and down flawlessly. I dont know what the dash board convertible light not coming on idicates and i have yet to check the convertible top motor to see if its getting the 12 volts when the dash button is depressed. Any insight as to why my dash light wont come on, any further advice is appreciated. I will try the last thing i know today and that is checking out the if any voltage is getting to my convertible top motor or not. Thank You.

Joe:

Now that you have eliminated the top control module, if the convertible top light does not go on at all when you press the switch, it may be the switch itself.

If the motor does not spin when you depress the switch, apply 12 volts directly to the motor.

If the motor spins when you apply the 12 volts, then it's a faulty switch or loose wiring to the switch.

Sounds like you are making progress.

Regards, Maurice.

Ok i have now applied the 12 volts directly to my motor a down goes the top and when i reverse the wires the do exactly as i would like them to do with the switch goes back up flawlessly. Motor appears and sounds to be in great working order now all that s left is the up and down switch in the panel next to the a/c vent outlet that supposed to raise and lower the top. I did use a meter on this switch and when i pressed switch on way it connected and i had continuity and when i reversed the wires the other way i also had the same for the opposite posts on the switch. So that to appears to be ok unless you think i should just invest in a new switch for $52.00 from Porsche parts here in Dallas, TX Help what should i do next?

[1schoir]

Ok i have now applied the 12 volts directly to my motor a down goes the top and when i reverse the wires the do exactly as i would like them to do with the switch goes back up flawlessly. Motor appears and sounds to be in great working order now all that s left is the up and down switch in the panel next to the a/c vent outlet that supposed to raise and lower the top. I did use a meter on this switch and when i pressed switch on way it connected and i had continuity and when i reversed the wires the other way i also had the same for the opposite posts on the switch. So that to appears to be ok unless you think i should just invest in a new switch for $52.00 from Porsche parts here in Dallas, TX Help what should i do next?

Joe:

Now that you have eliminated the motor, you have got to concentrate on the switch and/or the wiring.

To do a further test, pull the wires off the electric motor and see if you get a 12 volt reading on the wires there when you depress the switch, first in one direction and then in the other direction (again, make sure the latch is pulled and the parking brake is on with the parking brake light on).

If you do get 12V each time you depress the switch, then you can eliminate the wiring as the possible source of the problem by using an ohmeter on the wiring.

pull one wire off the back of the switch and connect the ohmeter to that wire. Then connect the ohmeter to the same color wire from among the wires that you pulled off the electric motor. If you get a reading that shows resistance, that wire is good. Repeat for the second wire.

If both wires are good, then I would probably invest in a new switch. If you are not in a hurry, you can probably do better on the price by using the board sponsor (Sunset Porsche). The link to their site is directly above, under "Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost".

Regards, Maurice.

[joebarri]

Ok i have now applied the 12 volts directly to my motor a down goes the top and when i reverse the wires the do exactly as i would like them to do with the switch goes back up flawlessly. Motor appears and sounds to be in great working order now all that s left is the up and down switch in the panel next to the a/c vent outlet that supposed to raise and lower the top. I did use a meter on this switch and when i pressed switch on way it connected and i had continuity and when i reversed the wires the other way i also had the same for the opposite posts on the switch. So that to appears to be ok unless you think i should just invest in a new switch for $52.00 from Porsche parts here in Dallas, TX Help what should i do next?

Joe:

Now that you have eliminated the motor, you have got to concentrate on the switch and/or the wiring.

To do a further test, pull the wires off the electric motor and see if you get a 12 volt reading on the wires there when you depress the switch, first in one direction and then in the other direction (again, make sure the latch is pulled and the parking brake is on with the parking brake light on).

If you do get 12V each time you depress the switch, then you can eliminate the wiring as the possible source of the problem by using an ohmeter on the wiring.

pull one wire off the back of the switch and connect the ohmeter to that wire. Then connect the ohmeter to the same color wire from among the wires that you pulled off the electric motor. If you get a reading that shows resistance, that wire is good. Repeat for the second wire.

If both wires are good, then I would probably invest in a new switch. If you are not in a hurry, you can probably do better on the price by using the board sponsor (Sunset Porsche). The link to their site is directly above, under "Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost".

Regards, Maurice.

Ok now i finally got tired of all the BS with the Porsche switches, relays, tip switches micro switches, break switch and everything (Replaced them all with new plus the $120+ relay NONE of this worked). Well i bypassed it ALL. Since my top has always gone up and down and always did flawlessly i pulled apart the connecter to the back conv top motor and seperated the black 4 pin connector and direct wired it to my battery of course with new wires hidden and fished thru the center console to the battery. In between that in instlled bosche relays and rewired into to the existing intrument convertible top panel switch and its connector. Now everything looks and works just as supposed to work with no obviouse physical changes to dash switches or instrument panel switches all is great and I love it again. Today was a beautiful day riding with my top down again. Anyone interested in how this works just ask and maybe i can help or for a small fee even build you the relay and the simple wiring diagram to install yourself. Beats the hell out of $2000 to $1200 the Porshe Dealerships all over the US and in Dallas, Tx wants to charge to repair it . Joe here in Fort Worth, Texas.

[1974TwinCam]

Joe,

 

I know it's been 8 years since this post, but if you are still in DFW, I would like to contact you about your fix.

 

Brian