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Understood and apologies - having plumbed the 997 communities, was hoping to expand to the other communities

Please do not double post your problem in multiple forum sections, it is against forum rules, and you will get an answer when one becomes available.

The valve lift system, like the Vario Cam system, are hydraulicly operated using the engine oil pressure network. One of the biggest problems with all of these systems is that they were designed with very small oil passages, making them very susceptible to problems with particles of debris in the oil blocking the passages. The fact that you found debris in the valve lift screen points to where the issue probably lies.

Hi all – I’m normally over in the 997.2 forums, but posting here in hopes of collecting thoughts from others who may share experience with Porsche’s VarioCam Plus and hydraulic lifter systems. I’m troubleshooting a cylinder-specific misfire and valve lift issue on my 2010 997.2 Carrera S (MA1.01 engine), and since your model shares similar engine architecture (MA1 family, VarioCam Plus system, hydraulic lifters/valve lift solenoids), I’m hoping some of you might have encountered or solved a similar issue. Full details below — thanks in advance for any input or shared experience. Mine: 2010 997.2 Carrera S (manual, RWD, 45K mi, all maintenance up to date). My tech suspects a possible mechanical lifter failure on Cyl 6. While certainly possible, the fact that this only occurs when hot, and not cold, seems counterintuitive for a classic lifter collapse. Car ran smoothly beforehand (including prior owner, whom I know well) with no startup issues, no misfire at idle, no abnormal engine noises, smoke, oil burn, or noticeable soot difference between pipes.. The issue: After about 1 hour of spirited driving in ~80°F weather, I experienced a sudden misfire and solid CEL. Codes were: P0306 (Cyl 6 Misfire) P1360 (Valve Lift Control – Cyl 6) P0455 (Evap System Leak – Large) After parking for ~20 mins and key cycling, CEL remained but it ran smoothly for the ~1hr drive home at <3K RPM. Misfire returned once the engine was fully hot again near home. This same pattern has now happened twice—always after 1+ hour of moderately hard driving. Tech findings so far: Swapped valve lift solenoids/actuators bank-to-bank – issue stayed on Cyl 6. Cleaned valve lift filter screen (minor grit found). No other filter debris found. CEL didn’t return during ~70mi of test driving (but not at high temps/load). Misfire does not occur on startup or under normal, cooler weather around-town driving. Also: No ticking or "tinking" sounds No oil consumption, smoke, or soot imbalance P0455 has returned with the same event each time but may be unrelated My, my tech reasonably now suspects a possible mechanical lifter failure on Cyl 6. But we're puzzled that the failure is isolated to just one cylinder, is reproducible under heat/load (rather than startup/idle). Looking for input on: Other possible root causes (thermal oil pressure loss, wiring, lifter oil supply?) Mechanical vs. oil pressure/control-related failure? Further diagnostic suggestions before invasive action? Jake Raby's video on bore scoring and lifter failures both gives me some comfort that it's prob not bore scoring, but where lifters are concerned the video also doesn't seem to address the above fact-pattern (instead discusses more common idle/cold, tinking, full bank, etc., type lifter issues). However, he at one point in the thread says that sometimes these engine's lifters are sensitive to oil, and he's seen misfires when the car "needed" an oil change (I've just had one), or simply didn't like a particular oil. The latter suggestion seems vaguely possible given my issue arises when temps/rpms are up? Thanks in advance for any ideas or experience. Little to nothing online with this fact-pattern, so hoping to not only dig up info but also create a record for others, pending diagnostics/outcome.

Hi all – I’m normally over in the 997.2 forums, but posting here in hopes of collecting thoughts from others who may share experience with Porsche’s VarioCam Plus and hydraulic lifter systems. I’m troubleshooting a cylinder-specific misfire and valve lift issue on my 2010 997.2 Carrera S (MA1.01 engine), and since your model shares similar engine architecture (MA1 family, VarioCam Plus system, hydraulic lifters/valve lift solenoids), I’m hoping some of you might have encountered or solved a similar issue. Full details below — thanks in advance for any input or shared experience. Mine: 2010 997.2 Carrera S (manual, RWD, 45K mi, all maintenance up to date). My tech suspects a possible mechanical lifter failure on Cyl 6. While certainly possible, the fact that this only occurs when hot, and not cold, seems counterintuitive for a classic lifter collapse. Car ran smoothly beforehand (including prior owner, whom I know well) with no startup issues, no misfire at idle, no abnormal engine noises, smoke, oil burn, or noticeable soot difference between pipes.. The issue: After about 1 hour of spirited driving in ~80°F weather, I experienced a sudden misfire and solid CEL. Codes were: P0306 (Cyl 6 Misfire) P1360 (Valve Lift Control – Cyl 6) P0455 (Evap System Leak – Large) After parking for ~20 mins and key cycling, CEL remained but it ran smoothly for the ~1hr drive home at <3K RPM. Misfire returned once the engine was fully hot again near home. This same pattern has now happened twice—always after 1+ hour of moderately hard driving. Tech findings so far: Swapped valve lift solenoids/actuators bank-to-bank – issue stayed on Cyl 6. Cleaned valve lift filter screen (minor grit found). No other filter debris found. CEL didn’t return during ~70mi of test driving (but not at high temps/load). Misfire does not occur on startup or under normal, cooler weather around-town driving. Also: No ticking or "tinking" sounds No oil consumption, smoke, or soot imbalance P0455 has returned with the same event each time but may be unrelated My, my tech reasonably now suspects a possible mechanical lifter failure on Cyl 6. But we're puzzled that the failure is isolated to just one cylinder, is reproducible under heat/load (rather than startup/idle). Looking for input on: Other possible root causes (thermal oil pressure loss, wiring, lifter oil supply?) Mechanical vs. oil pressure/control-related failure? Further diagnostic suggestions before invasive action? Jake Raby's video on bore scoring and lifter failures both gives me some comfort that it's prob not bore scoring, but where lifters are concerned the video also doesn't seem to address the above fact-pattern (instead discusses more common idle/cold, tinking, full bank, etc., type lifter issues). However, he at one point in the thread says that sometimes these engine's lifters are sensitive to oil, and he's seen misfires when the car "needed" an oil change (I've just had one), or simply didn't like a particular oil. The latter suggestion seems vaguely possible given my issue arises when temps/rpms are up? Thanks in advance for any ideas or experience. Little to nothing online with this fact-pattern, so hoping to not only dig up info but also create a record for others, pending diagnostics/outcome.

Hi all, looking for thoughts on a recurring issue with my 2010 997.2 Carrera S (manual, RWD, 45K mi, all maintenance up to date). My tech suspects a possible mechanical lifter failure on Cyl 6. While certainly possible, the fact that this only occurs when hot, and not cold, seems counterintuitive for a classic lifter collapse. Car ran smoothly beforehand (including prior owner, whom I know well) with no startup issues, no misfire at idle, no abnormal engine noises, smoke, oil burn, or noticeable soot difference between pipes.. The issue: After about 1 hour of spirited driving in ~80°F weather, I experienced a sudden misfire and solid CEL. Codes were: P0306 (Cyl 6 Misfire) P1360 (Valve Lift Control – Cyl 6) P0455 (Evap System Leak – Large) After parking for ~20 mins and key cycling, CEL remained but it ran smoothly for the ~1hr drive home at <3K RPM. Misfire returned once the engine was fully hot again near home. This same pattern has now happened twice—always after 1+ hour of moderately hard driving. Tech findings so far: Swapped valve lift solenoids/actuators bank-to-bank – issue stayed on Cyl 6. Cleaned valve lift filter screen (minor grit found). No other filter debris found. CEL didn’t return during ~70mi of test driving (but not at high temps/load). Misfire does not occur on startup or under normal, cooler weather around-town driving. Also: No ticking or "tinking" sounds No oil consumption, smoke, or soot imbalance P0455 has returned with the same event each time but may be unrelated My, my tech reasonably now suspects a possible mechanical lifter failure on Cyl 6. But we're puzzled that the failure is isolated to just one cylinder, is reproducible under heat/load (rather than startup/idle). Looking for input on: Other possible root causes (thermal oil pressure loss, wiring, lifter oil supply?) Mechanical vs. oil pressure/control-related failure? Further diagnostic suggestions before invasive action? Jake Raby's video on bore scoring and lifter failures both gives me some comfort that it's prob not bore scoring, but where lifters are concerned the video also doesn't seem to address the above fact-pattern (instead discusses more common idle/cold, tinking, full bank, etc., type lifter issues). However, he at one point in the thread says that sometimes these engine's lifters are sensitive to oil, and he's seen misfires when the car "needed" an oil change (I've just had one), or simply didn't like a particular oil. The latter suggestion seems vaguely possible given my issue arises when temps/rpms are up? Thanks in advance for any ideas or experience.

One must be in Developer or Engineering mode to deactivate thise features.

I just noticed something similar last week on my turbo. I was pretty worried so I took the rare step of consulting a mechanic (my Quickjack is worthless for the Cayenne.) He found it was the power steering pump but said it wasn't a critical situation. I just hate drips! So check that. You will need to drop the belly pan and it helps to use a lift.

As posted in another forum, it is a European requirement that speedometers read fast. It dates back to the 70s! My Porsches run about 2 mph, my Chevy truck about 4, and the BMWs about 3. That's according to Illinois' numerous radar speed displays.

Hey @Godders Ever discover the source of your oil leak? I am suffering from the same affliction!

Welcome to RennTech Nearly all car manufacturers purposely set their speedometers to read slightly fast, usually about 5 MPH, in an attempt to reduce any liability for potential speeding tickets. Some sages have also noted that with the speedo running fast on purpose, your warranty also runs out faster, but there is no evidence supporting that conjecture. As for your "at speed' questions; alignment, uneven tire wear, and worn or loose suspension components' are all candidates. A decent alignment shop should be able to tell you what's up in that department.

Hey everyone, I’ve been noticing something weird with my 2002 Boxster S, and I’d love to get your input on this. While driving at moderate speeds, everything seems fine, but as I push past 60-70 mph, it feels like my speedometer isn’t giving me an accurate reading. I first started suspecting this when I was pacing a friend’s car on the highway, and we both noticed a discrepancy between our speed readings. It’s not a drastic difference, but enough to make me question whether something is slightly off. Now, before I jump to conclusions, let me give you some background. The car is running stock wheels and tires, properly inflated, and I haven’t done any modifications that could throw off the speed sensors. The transmission shifts smoothly, and I don’t feel any hesitation in power delivery. I checked for any ABS warning lights, but nothing seems unusual there either. However, I did recently rotate the wheels, and I wonder if that could have had any indirect effect. A speedometer is a device that measures and displays the speed of a vehicle in real-time. It typically works by detecting the rotation of the wheels or transmission and converting that into a speed reading. Some newer systems use GPS-based tracking for improved accuracy. While most people associate speedometers with cars, they are also widely used in public transportation, such as in an instant speed measurement tool for buses and trains to ensure precise speed control. Given this, I’m wondering if my issue could be due to sensor calibration, wiring problems, or just a normal variation that I hadn’t noticed before. Beyond the speedometer issue, I’ve also noticed that at higher speeds, my steering feels slightly off. It’s not a dramatic pull, but it seems like I have to make more small corrections than I used to. The car has about 85k miles, and I don’t think any major suspension components have been replaced. Could this be related to worn bushings or an alignment issue? I don’t feel any vibration in the steering wheel, but something just feels a bit different. Another thing I’ve been considering is whether temperature fluctuations could be affecting the handling. I live in an area where the mornings are much cooler than the afternoons, and I know that tire pressure changes with temperature. Could that be affecting how stable the car feels on the highway? I always check my tire pressure when they’re cold, but I haven’t monitored how much it changes throughout the day. Also, could the aerodynamic setup of the car be playing a role? I don’t have any aftermarket modifications, but I wonder if something as simple as an undertray being slightly loose could be causing a bit of front-end lift. Has anyone experienced something similar?

Porsche 986 Oil Filter Replacement | Essential Tips & Torque Specs (DIY Guide) Why I Fill the Oil Filter Cover/Cap Halfway: Longevity purposes for high-mile reliability (300K+ miles goal) Daily driving in the PNW requires extra protection Reduces startup oil starvation & builds oil pressure faster Minimizes dry startup wear, ensuring better protection for IMS, camshafts, & valvetrain Contributes to long-term engine & bearing life Disclaimer: Results for filling your oil filter cover/cap may vary depending on you Author PorschesInTheRain Category Boxster (986) - Maintenance Submitted 03/31/2025 05:48 AM  

Usually, the internal walls fail in these oil coolers; when an O-ring goes bad, you typically get an external leak of the fluid passing thru that seal due to the internal pressures. Before removing the cooler, you need to drain the cooling system, but not necessarily the oil although many change the oil after servicing the cooler, just to be safe. Four small fasteners hold the cooler in place, and it is a very good idea to lift the cooler slightly before removing it and sliding a plastic bag under it to catch any residual fluids and prevent them from going down the wrong port. That said, if you have pressure tested the cooling system with no pressure loss, it would be my opinion that nothing is leaking, you just have cloudy coolant. Coolant can get cloudy for several reasons, the system was filled with a mix of coolant and tap water, the coolant is old and crapping out, debris in the system from prior repairs, even someone adding the wrong fluid to the coolant tank. You can drain the system, flush it with clear water, and then refill with a 50/50 mix of fresh coolant and distilled water (use distilled because the minerals in tap water reduce the service life of the mix).

Legend - thanks - worked perfectly for me.

Background. Bought 1998 986 two years ago. Had to replace a radiator shortly after taking possession, when I drained (yellow OEM?) coolant, it was clear, i.e., not murky. Two years later, I had the water pump fail. Replaced pump (Pierburg) and thermostat (low temp, first a Wahler that was defective -- on stovetop, wouldn't open 'til 180 -- then Motorad). Problem. When I drained the coolant this time (Porsche pink G-40), it was murky, not clear. Looks like I have something, maybe oil, in the coolant. It was weird in that whatever the contaminant is, it didn't separate from the coolant/water after I left it sit for a while, and it looked greyish, not brownish. (FYI, my oil, per the dipstick, is still clear-fresh: it was changed about 2,000 miles ago and looks like I poured it in yesterday.) And whatever the contaminant was, it got lighter -- but never fully went away -- with each subsequent flush (three in all, two with Prestone cleaner). No water in the oil that I can tell at the dipstick (again, oil looks clear and fresh). I pressurized the coolant system to 10psi each time I flushed and refilled, and it held the full 10psi for 30 minutes. I also did a vacuum method fill and the coolant system held a high vacuum, also for 30 minutes before I sucked in coolant. Not sure whether a leaking oil cooler would reflect in either a pressure or vacuum test. Prior to the water pump failing, I had no measurable loss of either coolant or engine oil. Any thoughts? Also, some questions about an oil cooler replacement, if I end up going that route. Where is the most likely oil-coolant barrier failure: in the oil cooler itself or at the o-rings at the engine-cooler interface? Should I first try just replacing the o-rings or should I expect to replace the cooler and o-rings? Do I need to drain the engine oil (if it is not contaminated of course) before removing the oil cooler? As the oil cooler is on top of the engine, it would seem that all the oil would have drained to the sump when not running -- or is there a reservoir and/or check valve that maintains oil in the cooler body? In advance, thanks for any help.

I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and it works fine now. I believe there is something inside the motor that broke the tip of the crankshaft position sensor off. Wires were exposed on the end of the sensor.

Update, not sure what changed but checking the plugs to the coils and the one on the right has 12.5v when the key is on the middle is ground and the left one has 0.10v while it’s turning over.

So I recently got a 1998 Porsche boxster and it wasn’t running. It was supposed to be a fuel pump issue, but after getting a good ground on the relay for the fuel pump and checking the psi which was around 58 I decided to check spark. So far I’ve pulled two plugs and neither of them are giving spark so I pulled the coils off and tested the wires with a volt meter while someone turned it over and still nothing. Not sure where to go next?

ABS failure with following PSM failure usually happen during the winter on the lower temps. Stop the engine, start the engine and it should clear. I've read it happens on 987 Caymans and it happened on my 987 Boxster 2-3 times like once per winter.

Okay. 2025 & I’m experiencing the same issue. Anyone get this figured out!?! Fixed wires, every last thing mentioned above & still have error, gear shift is locked up. Help !😩

That worked! Thank you so much.

Try 7018

Hi Loren, I am hoping you can help with a radio code for my 2002 996.2 C2. The radio is a Becker CDR-220 Model #4462 Serial #15004879 Thanks for any help you can provide!