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8035 Diagnosis information rear - Reversing light Possible fault causes - Open circuit/contact resistance in wiring, sockets, plugs and terminals - Short circuit to ground in wiring - Reverse gear switch faulty - Tiptronic control unit faulty - Short circuit to ground in point SP039_SPRFL_2 (driver's seat) of the ParkAssist control unit

Reread what Loren posted above: 8035 Diagnosis information rear - Reversing light Possible fault causes - Open circuit/contact resistance in wiring, sockets, plugs and terminals - Short circuit to ground in wiring - Reverse gear switch faulty - Tiptronic control unit faulty - Short circuit to ground in point SP039_SPRFL_2 (driver's seat) of the ParkAssist control unit And please do not double post your problem, it is against forum rules................

I’m experiencing something similar. The AC/Heater works, but the lcd screen flashes three times when I turn on the car and doesn’t read or regulate the temperature correctly. My icarsoft shows interior sensor fan code 8035. Did you find a solution?

Interior sensor fan code 8035

Welcome to RennTech When the immobilizer is working properly, it sees the engine turning from the crank position sensor signal, turns on the fuel pump, and switches on the ignition circuits. If any one of these are not functional (e.g.: the crank position sensor has no signal output), the immobilizer does not turn on the fuel or ignition as a safety function to prevent a fire. Everything has to work or you get nothing............

The immobilizer is not susceptible to sitting, but it is dangerously susceptible to moisture intrusion, which is a common problem with these cars. Here is a video about the problem and how to remove and examine the unit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9rpTYXSdYc And this is what the internals' look like if they have been wet:

Will do. Is the immobilizer easily accessed for removal? I'm just curious, would this be inspected first before fuel delivery troubleshooting, based on its more susceptible to corrosion damage by sitting?

The Immobilizer has water damage, I think I fixed it by re-soldering and testing all the components. When I try starting the engine, it won't allow the gasoline through the injectors because there is no power. Fuel pump is new, PSI at 150, but the car does not start because of this; there is a spark, and all the windows and all else, lights, work, but it just won't start. A mechanic told me that perhaps it is out of time, but I don't think so. Now I am looking for the main computer pin-out diagram or electronic diagram for the injectors. I already connected a launch and scanner and I'm not getting any error codes. I'm not sure what I am doing wrong or what's the issue with the car. I'm thinking that maybe the computer is not working. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

At this juncture, I would be looking at the immobilizer, pull it and open the case looking for signs of corrosion or moisture damage. It also has its own small fuse in it, check that as well. It is under the driver's seat.

Hello JFP, Well, I finally got a chance to install the CPS. It didn't start. Of course, I am disappointed, I really want to get this car going. This car always ran like a champ, but after sitting for over a year, it just won't start. What are the usual suspects in a car sitting? I'm just a bit frustrated 😤. Can I be missing a fuse or something? I did change the ignition and fuel pump relays. Is it back to a fuel delivery issue? What's my next step? I know I can get this done.

It is always helpful to give us the model year and exact model of your car. Yes, the canister is between the fuel tank and the luggage compartment -- accessed by removing the rear underbody protection cover. If you have a charcoal canister leak then the car should give you a fault code as the system is tested every time you start the car.

Shop rep texted to ask when I changed the oil last, because they pulled the filter and oil is more “sparkley” than they’d like (“very fine particles, not big chunks of glitter, so it isn’t as bad as it could be”). Thing is, this tech forgot THEY changed the oil <150 miles ago, back in November when I first had this issue (I was due for a change, plus they had found that grit in the valve solenoid filter). At the time they checked the other cartridge filters and reported nothing concerning. So now, add to the consistent cyl 6 issue with misfires once warm, plus “more sparkley than they’d like to see” oil filter after a recent oil change. rep said they had intended to next run the car while attached to the scan tool and see what the lifter values were doing during operation - but I asked if that’s a good idea now that they know I just had an oil change. rep said he’d talk to tech and get back to me feeling not optimistic about this news

Charcoal Canister on the Panamera in rear driver side wheel well? I have a fuel smell in my car when the AC is on and recirculation is off (mainly when car is not moving). I want to check the lines going to the canister and also the purge valve (if I can find it). Not much info out on the Panamera relating to this topic. I also read that the catalytic converter seals may be bad. When bad, they can produce a fuel smell in cab.

Did you have it coded to the vehicle with a PIWIS system? If not, start there...................

2005 Boxster w/ 5 speed I’ve replaced my rear control module w/ one from Specialized ECU Repair… reassembled everything except trim & seat & get no idiot lights nor starter… horn, radio, lights work… battery @ 13.7 volts… anyone w/ suggestions???

09 Cayenne GTS I finally decided to try and connect my iPhone to the PCM via the y split cable using a 30 pin female to lightning Apple certified adapter. 1) PCM recognizes the phone when I switch to iPod source. 2) PCM display is not active but iPhone Audio plays thru SUV speakers. 3) iPhone controls are active BUT 4) the volume controls on the PCM, the steering wheel and the iPhone Do Not work but the mute function does work ! This is pretty weird to me. Maybe I’m missing something or a setting on phone perhaps?? Any thoughts on this is appreciated !

Understood and apologies - having plumbed the 997 communities, was hoping to expand to the other communities

Please do not double post your problem in multiple forum sections, it is against forum rules, and you will get an answer when one becomes available.

The valve lift system, like the Vario Cam system, are hydraulicly operated using the engine oil pressure network. One of the biggest problems with all of these systems is that they were designed with very small oil passages, making them very susceptible to problems with particles of debris in the oil blocking the passages. The fact that you found debris in the valve lift screen points to where the issue probably lies.

Hi all – I’m normally over in the 997.2 forums, but posting here in hopes of collecting thoughts from others who may share experience with Porsche’s VarioCam Plus and hydraulic lifter systems. I’m troubleshooting a cylinder-specific misfire and valve lift issue on my 2010 997.2 Carrera S (MA1.01 engine), and since your model shares similar engine architecture (MA1 family, VarioCam Plus system, hydraulic lifters/valve lift solenoids), I’m hoping some of you might have encountered or solved a similar issue. Full details below — thanks in advance for any input or shared experience. Mine: 2010 997.2 Carrera S (manual, RWD, 45K mi, all maintenance up to date). My tech suspects a possible mechanical lifter failure on Cyl 6. While certainly possible, the fact that this only occurs when hot, and not cold, seems counterintuitive for a classic lifter collapse. Car ran smoothly beforehand (including prior owner, whom I know well) with no startup issues, no misfire at idle, no abnormal engine noises, smoke, oil burn, or noticeable soot difference between pipes.. The issue: After about 1 hour of spirited driving in ~80°F weather, I experienced a sudden misfire and solid CEL. Codes were: P0306 (Cyl 6 Misfire) P1360 (Valve Lift Control – Cyl 6) P0455 (Evap System Leak – Large) After parking for ~20 mins and key cycling, CEL remained but it ran smoothly for the ~1hr drive home at <3K RPM. Misfire returned once the engine was fully hot again near home. This same pattern has now happened twice—always after 1+ hour of moderately hard driving. Tech findings so far: Swapped valve lift solenoids/actuators bank-to-bank – issue stayed on Cyl 6. Cleaned valve lift filter screen (minor grit found). No other filter debris found. CEL didn’t return during ~70mi of test driving (but not at high temps/load). Misfire does not occur on startup or under normal, cooler weather around-town driving. Also: No ticking or "tinking" sounds No oil consumption, smoke, or soot imbalance P0455 has returned with the same event each time but may be unrelated My, my tech reasonably now suspects a possible mechanical lifter failure on Cyl 6. But we're puzzled that the failure is isolated to just one cylinder, is reproducible under heat/load (rather than startup/idle). Looking for input on: Other possible root causes (thermal oil pressure loss, wiring, lifter oil supply?) Mechanical vs. oil pressure/control-related failure? Further diagnostic suggestions before invasive action? Jake Raby's video on bore scoring and lifter failures both gives me some comfort that it's prob not bore scoring, but where lifters are concerned the video also doesn't seem to address the above fact-pattern (instead discusses more common idle/cold, tinking, full bank, etc., type lifter issues). However, he at one point in the thread says that sometimes these engine's lifters are sensitive to oil, and he's seen misfires when the car "needed" an oil change (I've just had one), or simply didn't like a particular oil. The latter suggestion seems vaguely possible given my issue arises when temps/rpms are up? Thanks in advance for any ideas or experience. Little to nothing online with this fact-pattern, so hoping to not only dig up info but also create a record for others, pending diagnostics/outcome.

Hi all – I’m normally over in the 997.2 forums, but posting here in hopes of collecting thoughts from others who may share experience with Porsche’s VarioCam Plus and hydraulic lifter systems. I’m troubleshooting a cylinder-specific misfire and valve lift issue on my 2010 997.2 Carrera S (MA1.01 engine), and since your model shares similar engine architecture (MA1 family, VarioCam Plus system, hydraulic lifters/valve lift solenoids), I’m hoping some of you might have encountered or solved a similar issue. Full details below — thanks in advance for any input or shared experience. Mine: 2010 997.2 Carrera S (manual, RWD, 45K mi, all maintenance up to date). My tech suspects a possible mechanical lifter failure on Cyl 6. While certainly possible, the fact that this only occurs when hot, and not cold, seems counterintuitive for a classic lifter collapse. Car ran smoothly beforehand (including prior owner, whom I know well) with no startup issues, no misfire at idle, no abnormal engine noises, smoke, oil burn, or noticeable soot difference between pipes.. The issue: After about 1 hour of spirited driving in ~80°F weather, I experienced a sudden misfire and solid CEL. Codes were: P0306 (Cyl 6 Misfire) P1360 (Valve Lift Control – Cyl 6) P0455 (Evap System Leak – Large) After parking for ~20 mins and key cycling, CEL remained but it ran smoothly for the ~1hr drive home at <3K RPM. Misfire returned once the engine was fully hot again near home. This same pattern has now happened twice—always after 1+ hour of moderately hard driving. Tech findings so far: Swapped valve lift solenoids/actuators bank-to-bank – issue stayed on Cyl 6. Cleaned valve lift filter screen (minor grit found). No other filter debris found. CEL didn’t return during ~70mi of test driving (but not at high temps/load). Misfire does not occur on startup or under normal, cooler weather around-town driving. Also: No ticking or "tinking" sounds No oil consumption, smoke, or soot imbalance P0455 has returned with the same event each time but may be unrelated My, my tech reasonably now suspects a possible mechanical lifter failure on Cyl 6. But we're puzzled that the failure is isolated to just one cylinder, is reproducible under heat/load (rather than startup/idle). Looking for input on: Other possible root causes (thermal oil pressure loss, wiring, lifter oil supply?) Mechanical vs. oil pressure/control-related failure? Further diagnostic suggestions before invasive action? Jake Raby's video on bore scoring and lifter failures both gives me some comfort that it's prob not bore scoring, but where lifters are concerned the video also doesn't seem to address the above fact-pattern (instead discusses more common idle/cold, tinking, full bank, etc., type lifter issues). However, he at one point in the thread says that sometimes these engine's lifters are sensitive to oil, and he's seen misfires when the car "needed" an oil change (I've just had one), or simply didn't like a particular oil. The latter suggestion seems vaguely possible given my issue arises when temps/rpms are up? Thanks in advance for any ideas or experience. Little to nothing online with this fact-pattern, so hoping to not only dig up info but also create a record for others, pending diagnostics/outcome.

Hi all, looking for thoughts on a recurring issue with my 2010 997.2 Carrera S (manual, RWD, 45K mi, all maintenance up to date). My tech suspects a possible mechanical lifter failure on Cyl 6. While certainly possible, the fact that this only occurs when hot, and not cold, seems counterintuitive for a classic lifter collapse. Car ran smoothly beforehand (including prior owner, whom I know well) with no startup issues, no misfire at idle, no abnormal engine noises, smoke, oil burn, or noticeable soot difference between pipes.. The issue: After about 1 hour of spirited driving in ~80°F weather, I experienced a sudden misfire and solid CEL. Codes were: P0306 (Cyl 6 Misfire) P1360 (Valve Lift Control – Cyl 6) P0455 (Evap System Leak – Large) After parking for ~20 mins and key cycling, CEL remained but it ran smoothly for the ~1hr drive home at <3K RPM. Misfire returned once the engine was fully hot again near home. This same pattern has now happened twice—always after 1+ hour of moderately hard driving. Tech findings so far: Swapped valve lift solenoids/actuators bank-to-bank – issue stayed on Cyl 6. Cleaned valve lift filter screen (minor grit found). No other filter debris found. CEL didn’t return during ~70mi of test driving (but not at high temps/load). Misfire does not occur on startup or under normal, cooler weather around-town driving. Also: No ticking or "tinking" sounds No oil consumption, smoke, or soot imbalance P0455 has returned with the same event each time but may be unrelated My, my tech reasonably now suspects a possible mechanical lifter failure on Cyl 6. But we're puzzled that the failure is isolated to just one cylinder, is reproducible under heat/load (rather than startup/idle). Looking for input on: Other possible root causes (thermal oil pressure loss, wiring, lifter oil supply?) Mechanical vs. oil pressure/control-related failure? Further diagnostic suggestions before invasive action? Jake Raby's video on bore scoring and lifter failures both gives me some comfort that it's prob not bore scoring, but where lifters are concerned the video also doesn't seem to address the above fact-pattern (instead discusses more common idle/cold, tinking, full bank, etc., type lifter issues). However, he at one point in the thread says that sometimes these engine's lifters are sensitive to oil, and he's seen misfires when the car "needed" an oil change (I've just had one), or simply didn't like a particular oil. The latter suggestion seems vaguely possible given my issue arises when temps/rpms are up? Thanks in advance for any ideas or experience.

One must be in Developer or Engineering mode to deactivate thise features.

I just noticed something similar last week on my turbo. I was pretty worried so I took the rare step of consulting a mechanic (my Quickjack is worthless for the Cayenne.) He found it was the power steering pump but said it wasn't a critical situation. I just hate drips! So check that. You will need to drop the belly pan and it helps to use a lift.

As posted in another forum, it is a European requirement that speedometers read fast. It dates back to the 70s! My Porsches run about 2 mph, my Chevy truck about 4, and the BMWs about 3. That's according to Illinois' numerous radar speed displays.