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Porsche 986 Oil Filter Replacement | Essential Tips & Torque Specs (DIY Guide) Why I Fill the Oil Filter Cover/Cap Halfway: Longevity purposes for high-mile reliability (300K+ miles goal) Daily driving in the PNW requires extra protection Reduces startup oil starvation & builds oil pressure faster Minimizes dry startup wear, ensuring better protection for IMS, camshafts, & valvetrain Contributes to long-term engine & bearing life Disclaimer: Results for filling your oil filter cover/cap may vary depending on you Author PorschesInTheRain Category Boxster (986) - Maintenance Submitted 03/31/2025 05:48 AM  

Usually, the internal walls fail in these oil coolers; when an O-ring goes bad, you typically get an external leak of the fluid passing thru that seal due to the internal pressures. Before removing the cooler, you need to drain the cooling system, but not necessarily the oil although many change the oil after servicing the cooler, just to be safe. Four small fasteners hold the cooler in place, and it is a very good idea to lift the cooler slightly before removing it and sliding a plastic bag under it to catch any residual fluids and prevent them from going down the wrong port. That said, if you have pressure tested the cooling system with no pressure loss, it would be my opinion that nothing is leaking, you just have cloudy coolant. Coolant can get cloudy for several reasons, the system was filled with a mix of coolant and tap water, the coolant is old and crapping out, debris in the system from prior repairs, even someone adding the wrong fluid to the coolant tank. You can drain the system, flush it with clear water, and then refill with a 50/50 mix of fresh coolant and distilled water (use distilled because the minerals in tap water reduce the service life of the mix).

Legend - thanks - worked perfectly for me.

Background. Bought 1998 986 two years ago. Had to replace a radiator shortly after taking possession, when I drained (yellow OEM?) coolant, it was clear, i.e., not murky. Two years later, I had the water pump fail. Replaced pump (Pierburg) and thermostat (low temp, first a Wahler that was defective -- on stovetop, wouldn't open 'til 180 -- then Motorad). Problem. When I drained the coolant this time (Porsche pink G-40), it was murky, not clear. Looks like I have something, maybe oil, in the coolant. It was weird in that whatever the contaminant is, it didn't separate from the coolant/water after I left it sit for a while, and it looked greyish, not brownish. (FYI, my oil, per the dipstick, is still clear-fresh: it was changed about 2,000 miles ago and looks like I poured it in yesterday.) And whatever the contaminant was, it got lighter -- but never fully went away -- with each subsequent flush (three in all, two with Prestone cleaner). No water in the oil that I can tell at the dipstick (again, oil looks clear and fresh). I pressurized the coolant system to 10psi each time I flushed and refilled, and it held the full 10psi for 30 minutes. I also did a vacuum method fill and the coolant system held a high vacuum, also for 30 minutes before I sucked in coolant. Not sure whether a leaking oil cooler would reflect in either a pressure or vacuum test. Prior to the water pump failing, I had no measurable loss of either coolant or engine oil. Any thoughts? Also, some questions about an oil cooler replacement, if I end up going that route. Where is the most likely oil-coolant barrier failure: in the oil cooler itself or at the o-rings at the engine-cooler interface? Should I first try just replacing the o-rings or should I expect to replace the cooler and o-rings? Do I need to drain the engine oil (if it is not contaminated of course) before removing the oil cooler? As the oil cooler is on top of the engine, it would seem that all the oil would have drained to the sump when not running -- or is there a reservoir and/or check valve that maintains oil in the cooler body? In advance, thanks for any help.

I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and it works fine now. I believe there is something inside the motor that broke the tip of the crankshaft position sensor off. Wires were exposed on the end of the sensor.

Update, not sure what changed but checking the plugs to the coils and the one on the right has 12.5v when the key is on the middle is ground and the left one has 0.10v while it’s turning over.

So I recently got a 1998 Porsche boxster and it wasn’t running. It was supposed to be a fuel pump issue, but after getting a good ground on the relay for the fuel pump and checking the psi which was around 58 I decided to check spark. So far I’ve pulled two plugs and neither of them are giving spark so I pulled the coils off and tested the wires with a volt meter while someone turned it over and still nothing. Not sure where to go next?

ABS failure with following PSM failure usually happen during the winter on the lower temps. Stop the engine, start the engine and it should clear. I've read it happens on 987 Caymans and it happened on my 987 Boxster 2-3 times like once per winter.

Okay. 2025 & I’m experiencing the same issue. Anyone get this figured out!?! Fixed wires, every last thing mentioned above & still have error, gear shift is locked up. Help !😩

That worked! Thank you so much.

Try 7018

Hi Loren, I am hoping you can help with a radio code for my 2002 996.2 C2. The radio is a Becker CDR-220 Model #4462 Serial #15004879 Thanks for any help you can provide!

To measure cam deviation with the Durametric system, connect the tool and navigate to actual values tab and select cam deviation Bank 1 and 2 to view the values. Ideally, the engine should be fully warmed up to get true numbers. The video below shows someone doing the same thing on Boxster, but the process is the same:

Hello all, The car is a 1999 996 C4 MT with 206,000 miles. When the car is cold, it starts fine and idles well. Once it is warmed up, the idle becomes rough and eventually the engine stops running unless I give it a bit of gas. Then I get a no-start issue. If I hold the accelerator to the floor, that gets the engine started again. I am getting a CEL: 1341, bank 1 I do have the Durametric tool, but am unsure what to do to measure the camshaft deviation and to activate the variocam. What are everyone's thoughts?? To add: I have cleaned the TB and all done all of the basics regarding poor idle, but no change. At 125,000 miles I had the engine out to repair a cracked head (Hoffman did the repair) at the time I replaced valve springs, reground the valves, and replaced all of the chain ramps and variocam pads with updated parts.

Hi everyone, great read this. Glad the fix sorted it! Do you think this could be the same? 987 Boxster Rattle **ANNOYING** - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM General Porsche Discussions Forum - 987 Boxster Rattle **ANNOYING** - So I just got an 06 Boxster; working out the minor kinks of the car, and...

Is it still on the right side for RHD cars? I'm in UK about to do full suspension service so changing the valves on the shocks and the o rings etc in the compressor with new dryer material

Normally I would say buy the newest car - but in this case I think the C2S with the manual is a better choice.

Glad you had a great experience and want more. Tracking is a lot of fun! The track you'll be driving determines a lot of this. One local track required a lot of brake so I spent on brake. The new track uses little brake but a lot of grip so sticky tires and suspension overhaul are good. One of my 996 buddies spent a ton on his suspension including all the adjustable links, but went back towards stock as it was too uncomfortable as a daily. Maybe just a simple refresh of the 3 arms on each corner with new bits unless yours have already been done. Another intermediate step would be firmer bushings in the metal arms. Next, there are intermediate steps between coilovers and stock dampers. Stiffer Bilsteins (B4 is stock, B6 is stock height but stiffer, B8 is for use with lowering springs and same stiffness IIRC as the B6). I run B6 on my Box and its a good compromise.

I'll see if I can look it up, but that sounds correct but I only had one bank, I think 2. Yes, I'm certain it's the lift solenoid.

To the porsche gurus, I thank you in advance for your help. I am about to buy my first porsche. A childhood dream. It is between a 2008 Carerra S. 61,000 kms, Manual, No PASM and a 2009 997.2 Carrera S, PDK, 85,000 kms, ceramic brakes, fully loaded. Both have a full service history. If it was you, what would you buy?

Hi Lauren, Your’e an absolute star, that’s worked spot on. Much appreciated.

Try 1570

Hi, New on here. Just bought a 986 and whilst replacing the battery I’ve lost the radio code. It’s a Becker CDR22 Ser no Y5028520 can anyone help me with this. thanks in anticipation.

It worked - thank you so much!