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P1276 Signal Delay Time for Oxygen Sensor Ageing, Bank 2 – Above/Below Limit Possible causes: – Oxygen sensor ahead of TWC – Leak ahead of TWC or in the area of the oxygen sensor after TWC – Wiring (oxygen sensors exchanged)

Hi all - getting my Boxster back on the road. Has been garaged on trickle charger for about 8 months. I've driven it the past couple of days with no issues, but today, I got a solid CEL (P1276 when I used my code reader). Below are the "live" values I was able to capture from the code reader. From what I read this points to 02 sensor. I have cat bypass pipes and aftermarket muffler on my boxster, but I have the stock headers (and don't remember ever messing with 02 sensors during the swap). To be honest, I dont know if this means I have 2 02 sensors or 4 on the stock headers. There's no 02 bungs or sensors on the cat pipes or muffler. Can yall tell me what best plan of attack is here? 2000MY non-S with roughly 95k miles and no other issues present. Param Value Bank1 Sens1 02S Outp 0.100V Bank1 Sens1 STFT 6.2% Bank1 Sens2 02S Outp 0.110V Bank1 Sens2 STFT 99.0% Bank2 Sens1 02S Outp 0.600V Bank2 Sens1 STFT 2.3% Bank2 Sens2 02S Outp 0.710V Bank2 Sens2 STFT 99.0% Engine RPM 828 Fuel System 1 Closed loop Fuel System 2 Closed loop Load Value: 3.50% LTFT Bank1 -13.20% LTFT Bank1 -11.70% STFT Bank1 5.40% STFT Bank2 6.20%

The frame does seal properly, but I think the outside (see picture from original post) of the frame is misshapen. Do you think heating the area with a heat gun and gently pulling the area would help bridge the gap?

Could be the fram or the window is warped. Does the frame seal properly around the door?

The larger (lighter) near object is a turbocharger - if there is oil coming out of that then you likely need a new one. I am not sure if anyone can rebuild them these days or not.

Hello all! I replaced my driver-side front window recently and replaced the window frame guide. After getting everything back together and driving the car I heard a faint whistling at the top of the window which wasn’t present prior to the replacement. Upon inspection I noticed around a 2mm gap at the top right corner of the window frame guide where the window frame guide should sit against the aluminum trim. I tried loosening the 3 compensating socket bolts on the sides of the door and my adjustment helped a little, but I am still left with a gap. My next plan is to heat-up the area with a heat gun and gently pull the area where the gap is… would this be a bad idea? Anyone have any noninvasive suggestions for addressing this?

Hi, thanks for the diagram. Any idea what part 14 is? I’m seeing oil around that area and I’m trying to investigate. Thanks.

P1531 Actuator triggered, no active position. - Open circuit in triggering wire. - Open circuit in B+ supply. - Actuator faulty. P1689 is not a valid code for MY1999 C2. Perhaps check again?

Hey everyone, first post here and fairly new owner of a 99 C2. I've finally been able to run some diagnostics with the Durametric and I got the following fault codes: P1689 - Control unit faulty P1531 - Camshaft adjustment bank 1 I suspect P1531 is a result of a faulty DME, but that is simply a guess. I should note that I've had issues connecting to Durametric and seeing the fault codes in the past (evidence of some kind of DME issue?) Also, I've been experiencing a bit of hunting idle and what feels like engine shuddering (misfires?) at idle. I've cleaned the MAF, TB, and replaced the IACV. The vehicle had an aftermarket radio installed by the PO which I've recently upgraded to a double din unit, but I haven't changed any of the wiring. I'm in need of some troubleshooting help. Would it be worthwhile to start with a replacement of the DME relay? Thanks all! dro

Thanks, that's what it was. The headlight tray was damaged and the connector wasn't being held in securely. Replaced the tray and all seems good now. Thank you

Did you reset the codes and now they have come back? Is it misfiring when idling? While driving part throttle? Wide open throttle? What coils and plugs have you changed? If you have changed plugs, how did the old ones look? Oil covered? Eroded? Smelled like gas? Sooty? Are you on fresh gas or two+ month old gas? Do you have a Durametric? Can you monitor some live values like fuel trim, camshaft deviation, etc.?

Still Fighting the misfire, local shop checked some things and found that my battery cable, the bolt that goes through the fire wall and starter / alternator cable needs to be replaced ( starter also ) before they go farther with diagnostics. $720 for diagnostics and $4000 to replace above parts (parts included) Payed for diagnostics and did all work myself. Still same problem - misfire on cyl-1 and sometimes on 3 ( misfire on 4 was just loose coil from my sloppy install ) work in progress 😞

UPDATE: SOLVED - I was finally able to bring the car into my mechanic. Basically, they replaced the driver side door lock actuator. Here is the part number. (uro parts door lock actuator 8N1837015C) On the passenger side it was just a broken clip that they replaced. So, problem solved (for now).

Picture for sympathy... Tires were cracking so I picked up the wheels off FB (plus I was feeling optimistic 😐)

Sorry for the long first post... So I bought a project 2009 Cayenne S. Not just any project Cayenne but one that was being sold by someone who bought it as a project from someone else who bought it as a project…quality. As best I can tell this car has not run in better part of 5 years with little done to address it. The upside is it only has about 75k miles and is in really pretty nice shape. I am dealing with a no crank/start condition. I have replaced the battery, gone through the typical wiring area issues in the floorboard. When I put the key in it is recognized by the immobilizer and the steering lock releases (and the dash and radio come on as expected.) I have monitored the live readings in the modules and can see that the brake pedal switch is working, the park/neutral input is reacting and is correct and the KESSY module has the start sequence ready as “yes.” I can see the ignition go to position 2. Yet when I turn the key I get nothing (other than other “relay” sounds from the engine compartment.) I can jump the starter relay and the engine will fire right up. I checked the continuity in the circuit between the KESSY and the starter relay and don't have any errors . When I monitor voltage on that circuit, I get a momentary blip on start but it immediately drops. Code wise I'm getting a Gateway 1336 “CAN comfort OFF”, a 0189 “Terminal 50” sporadic from the KESSY. I have three codes on the transfer case (2039, 2033 and 2025) which seem to point at a bad TC motor. I have a 2053 “Transfer box control unit” on the trans control. I have a bad steering angle sensor and a bunch of errors on the headlight modules. Obviously no engine codes as I can't get it to run. (Oh and only the steering wheel controls work for the PCM. Just want to give the complete picture.) I've gone through all the fuses and I'm kind of stuck on where to go next. Seems like it could be a KESSY issue but it also seems a little too narrow of a fault and I have not come across anyone else with the same exact issue. The fact that so many of the sensors/inputs look to be normal (without anything jumping out as obviously “abnormal”) has me a little stumped. Welcome your thoughts..

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@Loren Resurrecting an old thread I have a wiring question here. Replacing brakes and rotors and like everyone else the abs sensor and pad sensor connector crumbled in my hands. Im comfortable making new deutsch connectors instead of buying the repair kit. However, is the single ground that goes to the 10mm nut grounding both sensors? Meaning if I establish a connection for the brake pad sensors and a seperate one for the abs, and simply put the ground back to the nut, would both sensors be expected to function normally?

To start with, you need an electrical diagram to check all the points, a more than decent multimeter and a PIWIS to go deeper if necessary, otherwise it will remain a guessing game.

so the starter will continue to crank the engine for six seconds and then shut off if it doesnt receive the signal. the whole time the engine is trying to start. does that mean the engine will not start as well because of no signal? what is the signal from and is it a hassle to fix.

Hey BigDam, this is the method I started, with the soldering iron, but still in the process. I was about to give up and I came to look this up and see what others had done. Glad to see it looks like this will work. Does that car happen to be a Millenium Edition? 2000 C4 and that paint looks like it could be Violet Chromaflair

Sorry to hear, you made the effort but sometimes the damage is just too extensive because salt water immersion is death to so many electrical and electronic components. Good luck with your new ride………

No the code is by Becker serial number - and Becker made both.

I had a similar issue on my 99. It was the four spoke steering wheel. It is pretty common that the airbag mount gets worn out. I had to replace the mount because mine would either not work or honk the horn when I hit a bump in the road. If you have the four spoke, it might be this same mounting bracket. It was fairly easy to replace.

I know it sucks to read through an entire thread and then it ends abruptly with no conclusion. Long story short, after almost 3 years, I gave up. To all those that told me it was a very bad idea to buy a flooded 911, you were correct. I sold it to CogsCogs Porsche graveyard that is close by. Joe is a great guy with a lot of used Porsche parts, and a Porsche transmission expert. He pulled the drivetrain, and the car is currently on eBay. My 2004 C2 arrived this past Wednesday, it’s an awesome car. Really nice condition with 80K miles on it.

I purchased a PIWIS 3 from the Autonumen website. I used it on the non-running 99 C2. When I put a thumb drive in it and copied some log files off of it, the thumb drive was littered with multiple viruses. As a test, I formatted the thumb drive, put it back in the PIWIS and copied a single file. Again, when I put it in my PC, it had 5-6 different viruses on it. I have a 04 C2 now, but I’m afraid to even connect the PIWIS to the car.