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Normally I would say buy the newest car - but in this case I think the C2S with the manual is a better choice.

Glad you had a great experience and want more. Tracking is a lot of fun! The track you'll be driving determines a lot of this. One local track required a lot of brake so I spent on brake. The new track uses little brake but a lot of grip so sticky tires and suspension overhaul are good. One of my 996 buddies spent a ton on his suspension including all the adjustable links, but went back towards stock as it was too uncomfortable as a daily. Maybe just a simple refresh of the 3 arms on each corner with new bits unless yours have already been done. Another intermediate step would be firmer bushings in the metal arms. Next, there are intermediate steps between coilovers and stock dampers. Stiffer Bilsteins (B4 is stock, B6 is stock height but stiffer, B8 is for use with lowering springs and same stiffness IIRC as the B6). I run B6 on my Box and its a good compromise.

I'll see if I can look it up, but that sounds correct but I only had one bank, I think 2. Yes, I'm certain it's the lift solenoid.

To the porsche gurus, I thank you in advance for your help. I am about to buy my first porsche. A childhood dream. It is between a 2008 Carerra S. 61,000 kms, Manual, No PASM and a 2009 997.2 Carrera S, PDK, 85,000 kms, ceramic brakes, fully loaded. Both have a full service history. If it was you, what would you buy?

Hi Lauren, Your’e an absolute star, that’s worked spot on. Much appreciated.

Try 1570

Hi, New on here. Just bought a 986 and whilst replacing the battery I’ve lost the radio code. It’s a Becker CDR22 Ser no Y5028520 can anyone help me with this. thanks in anticipation.

It worked - thank you so much!

Try 9101

Thanks JE. So you think it's the lift solenoid for your engine? What codes are you seeing on yours? Most people with the solenoid issue have errors codes on many cylinders, and I only have #8 issues, so I'm not sure if it's just a lifter or what...

Hi all, If anyone could assist with providing a radio unlock code that would be massively appreciated! My details are as follows: 1999 Carrera 4 Becker 1 CDR-220 CDP2081 4462 24/99 SER: Y5034773 Thanks in advance!

I’ve fought this for a few months. Initially got the variable timing unit replaced by mistake. Spoke with head tech at a dealership about while there for another issue. He was kind enough to explain how to change the lift solenoid without a lot of difficulty. He suggested removing the panel behind the engine for better access. Also, you’ll need an o ring for the vacuum pump as that must be removed. Since it seems to only appear from cold, disappearing once warmed, I’m going to put this off a while. Building an engine for one of the Boxsters takes a lot of time.

UK 2008 Cayenne 3.6 (957). 179k Miles. Noticed a small pool of oil under the front nearside wheel (roughly under coolant tank). Recently passed MOT (typical!!) No loss of power Oil dipstick shows no significant loss of oil No dash warning signs Codes P0421 and P0431 (o2 sensors and/or cat) Lots of muck/oil/coolant behind nearside section of engine (when facing the engine, left side) Please see pics. Any ideas what could be causing the leak? Any direction would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Lex

Circling back to see if this was resolved before I start a new thread. Hope that's not too old of a thread to bring back from the dead. With no answer I'm continuing the discussion. I've got a 2011 Cayenne Turbo, with P1376 on cylinder 8, small. Plugs and coil packs are good, no major scoring visible on the cylinders via boroscope. Compression is 240-270 with the #8 cylinder at 265. Car runs well, slight cold rough idle that passes. 166k miles. Oil is new. It was generally clean under the valve covers as the car was serviced to spec. Car has had the recalls done for the variocam bolts. The crankcase ventilation system and oil cap probably was replaced once in its life, but is showing its dirt today. I have a dropbox with values from the cams via the iCarsoft Por reader. I put some photos in there of the #8 cam and bearing, I see a little bit of wear, but no scoring. I have not removed camps to inspect the hydraulic valve to inspect if its got wear. This link should work without dropbox login, at the time this was posted: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/tcv1m5xt8sg92djz3pvqm/AJqYRXuGM80XYlI0zks1KZ4?rlkey=1ut8p119503jf6tcwnji8cqd6&st=tryart2w&dl=0 Further questions for troubleshooting: Does the valve cover ventilation system and oil cap pressurize the oil system for the lifters? What does the P1376 small vs large mean? I can clear the code and then see it again stored and pending, it's coming back. Since I am only getting one cylinder error, that is closer to the variable solenoid at the rear of the engine, this tells me that the solenoid is working, because other cylinders aren't seeing the error. If the cam was failing due to metal fatigue, or bearings, I should see more than one cylinder erroring out. The tabs on the camshaft for the position sensor are intact, I've read they get snapped off during valve cover reinstallation. This sensor should work or not, I assume there is no "half work" on hall effect sensors. That's enough for now!

My 2001 996 had the ABS & PSM lights come on, the shop ended up rebuilding the ABS pump and recalibrating the entire system. $3100.00 dollars later, she's running awesome. BTW the car was at the shop for 9 months. That part was extremely annoying..

Not at all although to your consideration your actual speed will be tiny higher as your rears have a 1/2" bigger diameter as your rears are 35 sidewall ratio instead of 30 required and the speed is calculated from your rear ABS tires RPM. The factory rim sizes for you are: 8-18 and 11-18 so your BBS are a little off and the sidewall ratio for the rears is 30 not 35 so your rears are a bit thicker because of that making it a little butt-up. But for the PSM it is no matter at all. My 2003 C2 Cabrio arrived at a time 2 years ago with 295 35/ZR18 because the seller bastards put in ExtremeContact DWS which is not having the size for 295/18 of the 30 sidewall ratio. So at some point in 2023 I got a set of 17" factory rims as 17" is the default rim size for the 996.2 and 18" is optional which is for MY2003 the factory had put all 18" rims option (which is on your hood label) so with 17"-s with the proper sizes PS2-s (205 50/17 and 255 40/17) the ride is a bit nicer/softer and the pup is horizontal as the proper size tires makes the pup absolutely horizontal no but-up but for PSM doesn't matter at all as it takes the input from your gas pedal position, PRMs, acceleration sensor, which one is the gear-in, and the ABS.

Will do. Currently it’s stuck on a wait screen. Guess I have to take the car for a drive for an hour before trying again right?

Try 0765

01 Boxster Type 4362 cr-220 Serial #: y5024627 becker 1

someone said bad variocam solinoids can pop the C2 fuse ... so i unplugged them ... still pops. so, im at, calling specialized ECU repair, and demanding the video of my ecu running a car (they claim to have it). casue at this point i dont believe them. unplugging the ECU does make C2 hold, just like X59/1. and visually inspecting the entire harness (which requires engine dropping).

so, after 2 days in rice, the X59/1 and 2 are both bone dry. still pops the fuse. so i used the new air compressor to blow out the ignition switch, still pops. i have a spare ignition switch, so i went to swap that in, only to find out its not the right switch. **** pelican as usual. but i did take the whole switch apart, confirmed it worked, blew it out, sprayed some dry lube in it, and put it back in, and it still pops. so there is literally nothing else to do. everything is good. the only thing left i fear is literally un-looming the entire harness and visually checking the whole thing. does anyone have *ANY* possible ideas? i really dont want to have to drop the engine and pull the intakes to visually check the wiring. but i dont know what to do next, cause everything works. except it doesnt.

alright dug into this issue. - not the ECU (tested by ECU repair company) -not on the fuel pump relay side -is on the oxygen sensor/injection relay side -disconnected oxygen sensors, still pops -disconnected the ignition coils, still pops -cant really get to the fuel injectors, but they do not have continuity with ground from the X59/1 plug to ground. does not pop when X59/1 plug is unplugged. did find that the X59 plug was full of water, blew it out with a air compressor ... still pops C2. blew out the oxygen sensor plugs ... still pops C2. so the wiring doesnt have a short, all the things at the end of the wires are good, connector appears good. i still think its water in the system somewhere, and the X59 was full of it, but that didnt fix it. but im again at a total loss.

It works! Thank you!

Yes.

Hi, where is the location of the GPS antenna ? is it in the rear spoiler (rear wing ) ? tq.